Pet Ferret: How Do You Decide?

There are a some serious questions that you should ask yourself before choosing or deciding on getting a pet ferret.

�Do you have the time to care for your pet ferret?
�Do you have enough space to keep a ferret?
�Have you educated yourself about these furry little creatures?

If your answer to all of these questions is a �Yes� then your ready to start the journey of a lifetime.

Ferrets are highly active and mischievous animals who will keep you entertained with their antics. They are extremely intelligent and hence litter training your pet ferret is not difficult at all. However, since they are extremely active you will need to make sure to get rid of items that are dangerous for them. Once left loose outside their cages they will run all around your home and enjoy every moment of their freedom. You will find them scampering around to investigate items that are lying around and trust me, they think everything is theirs.

Your pet ferret requires a cage that is big with enough space for their bedding, food, water and also some space for play. Choosing a cage for your ferret also requires you to check on certain details before you invest in one. For example, you will need a cage with bars that are no wider than 1 inch. This will ensure that your pet does not try to escape through the bars and/or get their head stuck while trying to get out. A specialized ferret cage is an ideal investment that takes care of minute details like flooring, bar spacing and even the area inside the cage.

Your pet ferret will also need a lot of attention like bathing, grooming, feeding, brushing their teeth and other ferret care requirements that will ensure their well-being and good health. Pet ferrets are very active in nature and love to play around. Give them a toy and they will spend hours and hours playing with it. There is an old saying about ferrets that I have found to be absolutely true, �A Ferret Can Never Have Too Many Toys!� However, a pet ferret prefers playing with you. This not only keeps them busy and entertained but you can also enjoy yourself in this daily-required activity. Yes, I said daily. Ferrets require a lot of your time, everyday.

Ferrets are generally nosey little animals and they love inspecting every corner of your house. If you think that you have put everything away, you haven�t. It is just a matter of time before your pet ferret finds it. Everyday is a huge adventure and they love every bit of it. Their curiosity will normally lead them in some trouble, which could be a misadventure for you. It is therefore important to keep things out of their reach and hidden in a safe place.

When your pet ferret is out of his/her cage, ensure that you are with them. Leaving your ferret unsupervised is not a good idea, for a simple fact that these nosey animals could swallow things or get themselves into trouble. Also make sure that you do not keep plants around their play area as they may be toxic for your little friend.

If you want to keep a pet ferret, make sure you learn everything you possibly can about them. I have written an ebook myself about them and you will find other educational books on ferrets in pet stores and even online. Choose one that will give you the guidance you need before investing financially as well as emotionally into one of these lovely little friends. Best of luck.

Have Dog Fun on the Weekend

Want to have a real blast this weekend? Get your grass mowed, do a minor garage cleaning, tell your group you will golf another day, then pack up the family and dog. Get over to a dog agility course. It is not only great exercise for your dog, but also for you. An agility course is truly a Dog Amusement Park.

We have a real bonus here in town. Just a few miles from Pet Keepers Mount Pleasant SC Boarding Kennel there is a county park that has a fenced in agility course. The name of the park is Palmetto Islands County Park and the address is 444 Needlerush Parkway, Mount Pleasant, SC 29464. You can google directions, or you can just get on Long Point Road, enter the Long Point subdivision and keep driving to the end of the road.

There you will find the park entrance gate. Pass over a few bucks, stay to the right, and drive right up to the "dog amusement park". Do not worry about parking. The course is surrounded by acres of grass. Distractions are few since the agility course is at the boundary of the county park, away from other attractions, and not on the major route through the park. The four-foot chain link fence surrounding the course lets you take off the lead and romp without worry. Cost? Completely free other than the few dollars you already paid to get through the entrance gate.

For those not so fortunate to live near an agility course, lobby for your county park to build one. The only substantial cost to the county would be about 300 feet of chain link fencing and some inexpensive obstacles. All of these obstacles are easily built by anyone somewhat handy with a saw, hammer and PVC piping. You could make the tunnel by cutting off the ends off fifty-five gallon barrels and joining them.

This course is not exactly what you see on TV for the competitions. It is scaled down somewhat and has a smaller perimeter, but still a terrific short course. There is no standard sequence of obstacles for real competitions because the judge sets it up how he wants each time. Competition dog agility is where a handler directs a dog through an obstacle course in a race for both time and accuracy. Dogs run off-leash with no food or toys as incentives. The handler cannot touch the dog or obstacles. You will not be this rigorous because you will be having family fun!

Obstacles at our neighborhood agility course include:

- A teeter board
- Tunnel
- Standard adjustable jumps
- Tire jump
- Weave poles
- Pause table
- Dog walk
- A-frame

Once you get good and worn out, cool down with a leisurely stroll with your around the park. There are walkways all over including some over marsh, a look out tower, slides and a playground. Talk about some great scents for your hound to investigate! This author has even taken the family Christmas photo at this site and always travels with a picnic lunch, including dog lunch. You can leave Splash Island for another day in the summer.

How to Make Cat Grooming Easier

Regularly grooming your pet cat help lessen hair ball problems and will make the fur of your cat look more healthy and shinny. Usually, cats love to be groomed but not all cats enjoy it. This article aims to help pet owners to make cat grooming easier. However hesitant your cat maybe to grooming you can still find ways to make it enjoy grooming. One way is to take advantage of upir cat's natural enjoyment of human contact. Even if you have a very aloof cat it also enjoys petting. Read the following pointers that you should remember in order to make grooming session with your cat will be stress free and enjoyable.

Reasons why your cat doesn't want to be groomed:
• Your cat has sensitive part of her body
• Dominant personality

First of all, you need to understand why your pet cat dont want to be groomed. Just like you, pets also has their sensitive parts and this is one of the reasons why your pet dont want to be touched or groomed. Another reason is injury. If your pet has injury or in pain it will most likely run away from you when you try to groom it. That's why it is advisable to check your pet's body to know which part of his body is sensitive or if your pet has any kind of injury. Once you know those areas then you can avoid it when you try to groom your pet but just make sure that you stop whenever your cat is starting to feel irritated. Thinking of other ways how to groom your cat like what I already mentioned can help your cat think that grooming is also pleasurable for him.

A cat that havent experienced that much grooming before is another tough case to break. You should slowly work your cat to get it used to grooming or even petting or giving it rewards after grooming can be very effective. Cats with dominant personally can also be reluctant to grooming. This kind of cat will usually refuse when someone is petting them or touching their head and other parts of their body which makes it hard to groom.

Understanding why your pet doesnt want to be touched or groomed can help you come up with ways on grooming your pet easier. Figure out what irritates your pet and from there try to come up with ways to make your pet love grooming. You should aslo take note how long your pet usually takes before it get upset or irritated when you are grooming it so that you will know when to stop. When your pet is starting to get tense or irritated you should stop grooming it this way you can avoid making your pet hate grooming activity.

Here are additional tips that you can try when grooming your cat.
• Groom your pet before feeding that way you can use the food to your advantage by making it as a reward to your pet for behaving well.
• Let your pet play with your grooming tools so that he can be at ease with those tools once you are using it unto him.
• Alternately comb your pets hair using your hand and grooming tool so your pet can feel more relaxed.
• Cats are more likely to be more relax during afternoon which also makes it the perfect time for grooming sessions.
• Use the right tools for the right job. Specialized grooming tools available in the market for your pets.

When you follow these tips and advices, you can be sure that you will have peaceful, enjoyable and stress free grooming session with your pet.

Wildlife Mammals and Birds

Unusual Birds and Mammals

We all know what wolves and coyotes look like, and nearly everyone is familiar with bears, deer and turtles; what about some less familiar animals such as capybara, kiwi, or tapirs? There are so many lesser known animals on this planet that we hear little or nothing about most times, it is interesting to investigate a few of these creatures and understand them a little more.

Mammals

Capybara are first on our list of unusual mammals. They are the world’s largest rodent, averaging 100 pounds. They are called rodents because they have sharp front teeth that never stop growing. They are semi-aquatic, spending a lot of time in the water. They live in grasslands and forests alongside water in Central and South America. They are most active during the early morning and late evening and rest during the heat of the day.

Our next animal is a cute little miniature "bear" called the kinkajou. These are a unique animal in that they are the only mammals that help to pollinate plants. They have very long tongues that they use to lick the nectar inside flowers. While they are licking, they get pollen on their fur and noses and this gets transplanted to other flowers as they feed. They are sometimes called honey bears because they love honey so much, but they are different from regular bears in that they are very small, most times not weighing more than 8 pounds. They are fun loving animals that even make good pets. They feed on fruit, honey and eggs in the wild and their closest cousin is the panda bear of Asia.

Another unusual mammal is a tapir. It looks like half anteater, half pig, yet they are not related to either. They descend from primitive horses and rhinos. They come in various color patterns depending on the region they are from. All baby tapirs, however, are born with a pattern of dots and stripes which make them look like a watermelon with legs. As they age, these markings fade away to be replaced with their adult color patterns. They feed on fruit, berries and leaves, and can live to be 30 years old.

Our last animal is a Marsupial Mouse. While this may seem like just any other mouse, there are some very distinct characteristics about the marsupial mouse that make it stand out. Being a marsupial, its young are "hatched" from inside their mothers and then they crawl through her fir up to their mother's underside where they attach and feed until they are fully developed. When they come out of their mother, they are so underdeveloped that in order to survive, they have to breathe through their skin. They are the only mammal found that can do this. As their lungs continue to develop, they gradually start to take over the breathing process until eventually, when fully developed, their skin no longer plays a role in breathing. They are carnivorous by nature, eating insects, small birds, reptiles and small mammals.

Birds

Of the various birds in the world, the kiwi bird is one of the most unique. It is similar to the chicken in that it can't fly. Their "wings" are only two inches long and for all practical purposes are useless. They are the sole survivor of an ancient order of birds including the now extinct moas. They are semi-nocturnal animals, so catching a glimpse of them in the wild rarely happens. They can only be found in New Zealand and its surrounding islands. The reason they have survived the ages in New Zealand comes from the fact that there are no snakes or large mammals native to New Zealand. A bird the size of a kiwi, without the capability to fly would be an especially attractive target to snakes. Also...the island has no bears, bobcats, tigers, etc., with also makes it easier for the kiwi to survive. With the coming of humans to the island, especially the colonization by England, house pets such as cats and dogs have become the main predators of the decreasing kiwi population. Some of the biggest birds in the world are condors. They can have wingspans up to 11 feet; they use their large wingspan to "float" on air thermals for miles without having to move their wings, which conserves their energy as they look for food. They are in the vulture family, feeding on the remains of animals and thus they play a very significant role in the animal kingdom. They have highly evolved immune systems to ward off infection from the various bacteria left on the animal carcasses they feed on. They are very clean birds, spending much of their time cleaning their feathers and heads after eating to further keep them safe from disease and bacteria. Their heads are featherless allowing them to stay clean during eating.

The last unusual bird is the worlds smallest, weighing in at only 1.8 grams, which is less than a US penny. The bee hummingbird's nest is only 3 cm wide. Its tiny wings beat 80 times per second. Using all this energy requires them to eat half their body weight in food each day as well as drink eight times their body weight in water. That's like a 150 pound adult human drinking 144 gallons of water each day. They are found only in Cuba and the Isle of Pines.

Cat Scratch Diesease

For almost 100 years, cat scratches have been associated with illness in people.

Cat Scratch Disease (CSD) is also called Cat Scratch Fever and benign lymphoreticulosis. While CSD is found all over the world, it is an uncommon disease.

One estimate by the Centers for Disease Control found that there were 2.5 cases of CSD per 100,000 people per year in the United States. While multiple cases of CSD in one household can occur, this situation is rare. A study in Florida found that more than one member of a family contracted CSD only 3.5% of the time. The majority of individuals who contract CSD are under the age of 17, and are usually under the age of 12.

Typically, a small skin lesion (resembling an insect bite) develops at the site of a cat scratch or (less commonly) a bite, followed within two weeks by swollen lymph nodes and sometimes a fever.

The illness is mild and self-limiting in the majority of patients, although it may take some months for the swollen lymph nodes to return to normal. Treatment is usually not required.

Reports over the last few years, however, have extended the spectrum of problems associated with CSD to include such things as tonsillitis, encephalitis, hepatitis, pneumonia and other serious illnesses in a very small number of cases. People with compromised immune systems, such as AIDS and cancer patients, are most at risk and can become most seriously ill.

Diagnosis of CSD may not be easy. There is no simple diagnostic test. Most physicians rely on history of exposure to a cat , the presence of typical clinical signs, failure to find another cause, and examination of tissues, such as biopsy of a swollen lymph node. Other diseases, such as tuberculosis, brucellosis, and lymphoma, can cause similar symptoms.

Over the years, the cause of CSD had remained elusive, although bacteria were commonly suspected to be the culprit. In 1988, a bacterium called Afipia felis was cultured from the lymph nodes of patients with CSD. In recent years, many studies have implicated the gram negative bacterium Bartonella henselae as the primary (but not the sole) cause of CSD. B. henselae is related to the agent of Trench Fever, B. quintana, a disease common in the trenches of World War I. Other Bartonella species may also be involved in CSD.

Cats are the main reservoir for B. henselae. Surveys for B. henselae antibodies in cats in the United States have found average infection rates to be from 25% to 41% in clinically healthy cats. The lowest rates were in the midwest and great plains regions (4-7%) and the highest were in the southeast (60%).

Warmer, more humid climates are most supportive of fleas, which have been shown to transmit B. henselae from cat to cat. It appears that the majority of cats do not become ill when they are infected with this bacterium and kittens are more commonly infected than adults.

Experimental infections in cats, however, have caused a mild illness with fever, anemia, and transient neurological dysfunction. Once infected, cats carry bacteria in their blood for many months. It is important to note, however, that despite widespread presence of B. henselae in cats, CSD itself is uncommon. It appears that CSD is not easily acquired.

While most patients with CSD have a history of a cat scratch or bite, not all do. Some patients have had no contact with cats at all. This makes the exact modes of transmission unclear.

It is likely that CSD can also be contracted from environmental sources of the bacteria or from other animals. For this reason, the term “bartonellosis” is a better way to describe the variety of illnesses that are caused by B. henselae. Recently, it has been found that dogs can become ill with a related Bartonella species and the role of dogs as a possible reservoir for human infection is undergoing study.

CSD is primarily a concern in homes with immuno- compromised people. Since kittens are more likely to carry B. henselae than adult cats, it is recommended that people with compromised immune systems adopt cats older than 1 year of age as pets to reduce the risk of c ontracting CSD. Any cat suspected of carrying B. henselae should be isolated from sick or immuno - compromised individuals.

However, there is no reliable and available diagnostic test to determine if a cat is a carrier of B. henselae. Since carrier cats are always healthy and multiple cases of CSD within a household are rare, euthanasia of a s uspected carrier is not warranted.

Onychectomy (declawing) is also not recommended, since infection can occur without a cat scratch. As is always the case, any cut or scratch should be promptly washed with soap and water. In addition, children should be taught not to tease or annoy cats and rough play should be discouraged. A common sense approach is the best way to safeguard against CSD

Cat Scratch Diesease

For almost 100 years, cat scratches have been associated with illness in people.

Cat Scratch Disease (CSD) is also called Cat Scratch Fever and benign lymphoreticulosis. While CSD is found all over the world, it is an uncommon disease.

One estimate by the Centers for Disease Control found that there were 2.5 cases of CSD per 100,000 people per year in the United States. While multiple cases of CSD in one household can occur, this situation is rare. A study in Florida found that more than one member of a family contracted CSD only 3.5% of the time. The majority of individuals who contract CSD are under the age of 17, and are usually under the age of 12.

Typically, a small skin lesion (resembling an insect bite) develops at the site of a cat scratch or (less commonly) a bite, followed within two weeks by swollen lymph nodes and sometimes a fever.

The illness is mild and self-limiting in the majority of patients, although it may take some months for the swollen lymph nodes to return to normal. Treatment is usually not required.

Reports over the last few years, however, have extended the spectrum of problems associated with CSD to include such things as tonsillitis, encephalitis, hepatitis, pneumonia and other serious illnesses in a very small number of cases. People with compromised immune systems, such as AIDS and cancer patients, are most at risk and can become most seriously ill.

Diagnosis of CSD may not be easy. There is no simple diagnostic test. Most physicians rely on history of exposure to a cat , the presence of typical clinical signs, failure to find another cause, and examination of tissues, such as biopsy of a swollen lymph node. Other diseases, such as tuberculosis, brucellosis, and lymphoma, can cause similar symptoms.

Over the years, the cause of CSD had remained elusive, although bacteria were commonly suspected to be the culprit. In 1988, a bacterium called Afipia felis was cultured from the lymph nodes of patients with CSD. In recent years, many studies have implicated the gram negative bacterium Bartonella henselae as the primary (but not the sole) cause of CSD. B. henselae is related to the agent of Trench Fever, B. quintana, a disease common in the trenches of World War I. Other Bartonella species may also be involved in CSD.

Cats are the main reservoir for B. henselae. Surveys for B. henselae antibodies in cats in the United States have found average infection rates to be from 25% to 41% in clinically healthy cats. The lowest rates were in the midwest and great plains regions (4-7%) and the highest were in the southeast (60%).

Warmer, more humid climates are most supportive of fleas, which have been shown to transmit B. henselae from cat to cat. It appears that the majority of cats do not become ill when they are infected with this bacterium and kittens are more commonly infected than adults.

Experimental infections in cats, however, have caused a mild illness with fever, anemia, and transient neurological dysfunction. Once infected, cats carry bacteria in their blood for many months. It is important to note, however, that despite widespread presence of B. henselae in cats, CSD itself is uncommon. It appears that CSD is not easily acquired.

While most patients with CSD have a history of a cat scratch or bite, not all do. Some patients have had no contact with cats at all. This makes the exact modes of transmission unclear.

It is likely that CSD can also be contracted from environmental sources of the bacteria or from other animals. For this reason, the term “bartonellosis” is a better way to describe the variety of illnesses that are caused by B. henselae. Recently, it has been found that dogs can become ill with a related Bartonella species and the role of dogs as a possible reservoir for human infection is undergoing study.

CSD is primarily a concern in homes with immuno- compromised people. Since kittens are more likely to carry B. henselae than adult cats, it is recommended that people with compromised immune systems adopt cats older than 1 year of age as pets to reduce the risk of c ontracting CSD. Any cat suspected of carrying B. henselae should be isolated from sick or immuno - compromised individuals.

However, there is no reliable and available diagnostic test to determine if a cat is a carrier of B. henselae. Since carrier cats are always healthy and multiple cases of CSD within a household are rare, euthanasia of a s uspected carrier is not warranted.

Onychectomy (declawing) is also not recommended, since infection can occur without a cat scratch. As is always the case, any cut or scratch should be promptly washed with soap and water. In addition, children should be taught not to tease or annoy cats and rough play should be discouraged. A common sense approach is the best way to safeguard against CSD

How To Give Medicine To Your Cat

If you own a cat, you already know how hard it is to get the little beggar to do anything he or she doesn't want to, and that includes taking medicine! Pills and capsules are a particular problem - it's almost impossible to get a cat to swallow a pill, so your only option is to crush it to powder and hide it in the cat's food. Cats have a good sense of smell, so you may have to hide it in a stinky treat, like salmon, for example.

If your cat is too smart for you, you could try getting your vet to prepare the medicine in a liquid form that the cat can't detect. Never forget that you can never count on a cat getting hungry - most cats have several houses in the street to 'stock up on' if the main home food dispensary starts playing up! Why only the other day, Woohoo brought home this fine cat - how could I possibly not feed him too?!

I'm against the use of plastic tubes to force the medicine down your cat's throat. You can traumatize the little fella if you do this - he almost certainly won't want to be your friend for days afterwards! No matter how sophisticated the tube (and some have 'launch mechanisms' etc), your cat will struggle, and this won't be fun.

In an absolute emergency (for example, when you know your cat has eaten something poisonous, and there is no time to call the vet) there is one guaranteed technique that could save your cat's life. I repeat, NEVER use this technique except in dire emergencies. Pick your cat up by the scruff of the neck and angle the cat's head backwards making his mouth face upwards. This is how mummy cats pick up kittens, and they have a reflex to temporary immobility in this position. You can then drop the medication straight down the cat's throat. The cat's usual reaction will be to swallow, although watch out for the cat breathing in - you don't want to pour it down his airways! Once swallowed, you can gently let the cat down. Remember to give her lots of strokes and treats after this kind of thing, because it is kind of traumatic for the cat (and the owner!).

If you have enjoyed this article, why not sign up for http://www.petmillions.com ? You can support your favorite cat charity, and get a chance to win a million! You can even vote for Woohoo while you are there! vote for Woohoo! . Just enter his pet id (3151) and away you go! Ta! Jules.

Setting Up a Reef Tank

Once the tank was up and running for a while, I was ready to look for some livestock. Keep in mind, if you are starting from scratch, you need to let the tank fully mature for 2-3 months with your rock and sand before adding your livestock. In my case, I used matured live rock and the same filters used on a matured tank. Although I could have stocked it within a day or two, I still ran the system for a couple of weeks, just to be sure everything was working the way it should. To mature a tank, you need to add a couple of fish and wait for the tank to cycle, although there are products available to greatly speed up the nitrification cycle.

The first fish I purchased were two yellow-tailed blue damsels, Chrysiptera parasema. These feisty little devils are very hardy, don't get very big (approximately 2 inches), are very active fish, make a good community reef fish, and are also good first fish for maturing a tank. They do tend to be territorial, and therefore a bit aggressive to intruders, but their size prevents them from doing any damage. Another good candidate, and a bit more docile, is the green chromis, Chromis viridis, which grows to about 3-4 inches. They are very active and are good schooling fish, in groups of three or more, with their iridescent green shimmering in the water as they dart back and forth along the upper levels of the tank.

The next candidate was a false clown anemonefish, Amphiprion ocellaris. These fish are a colorful orange with white vertical bands and black trim around the edges of all the fins. They make good community reef fish, grow to about 3.5 inches long, are active in the upper portion of the tank, and make an excellent choice for a reef tank. The clown anemonefish, Amphiprion percula has similar coloration, except the black lines are thicker separating the white bands from the orange on their bodies, among other distinctions. I also added a Clark's anemonefish, Amphiprion clarkii that a previous owner had for a few years, so he was fully-grown at about 5.5 inches. I guess because of his age and size, he is a bit bolder then the smaller percula clown, and lets everyone else in the tank know he's boss.

I hope this helps you in your quest for the first fish in your community reef tank, but I have only scratched the surface. There are many more fish that would make excellent tankmates. In the future, I hope to discuss them with you as I try them out in my reef tanks.

All the rock scrubbing was in vain, as when I returned from my trips, so had the algae. I loaded up the tank with approximately one crab per gallon, and every time I came back from a trip, you could see the algae disappearing, until after about three months, it was totally gone. These crabs not only eat the hair algae on the rocks, unlike the snails, they will pick the algae off the coral skeletons without stressing the corals. I was amazed at how fast they worked, around the clock, at removing the nuisance algae. They can get into the tightest areas, such as between the rocks and in the corners, to do their job, and do it well. And when the algae is gone, they will resort to scavenge the tank for leftover food on the bottom and in between the rocks.

Next, I found another unusual patterned fish know as the pajama cardinal, Sphaeramia nematoptera. Although this is a nocturnal fish, with the big red eyes, they tend to stay out during the day and just "hang" in the mid to upper levels of the tank as if suspended on a string. You can keep more than one of these fish in the same tank, and are a good fish to get two or three of at the same time. They can grow to a maximum 4-inch length. At the time I set up this tank, the banggai cardinalfish, Pterapogon kauderni was not available. This striking fish with black vertical bands against a silvery white background with many small white spots on the body and edging the fins, is another great fish to keep more than one in a community tank. They share the same traits as the pajama cardinal in that they sort of just hang there, although they are a bit more active, but they are a sight to see.

To take care of the lower portion of the tank, I obtained an algae blenny, Cryptocentrus caeruleomaculus, which can reach a length of 3 inches. These remind me of a stone, so ugly they are cute, as they will perch on a rock and not move for quite a while before suddenly bolting after a morsel of food or start "sucking" on the rocks or the glass for algae.

Astraea tecta snails fit the bill nicely, due to their relatively small size, which is about 1-1 inches. They are cone shaped, and because of their shape, they sometimes will fall and get stuck upside-down, when you will need to help them back on their "foot". Otherwise, they may fall prey to other scavengers.

Advantages Of Dog Food Coupons

There are many types of dog food coupons and they are easily accessible as well. You can find them on the internet as well as in traditional papers like magazines and newspapers. There are various brands which are offering dog food coupons for different varieties of dog foods like canned food, dry food and even packaged dog treats. Most of the people are always worried about the high costs of the special dog foods therefore, they always rely on such coupons. In this way you can arrange a different food for your dog without much expense. Most of the dog lovers go for these coupons and arrange cheap, unique and delicious food for their dogs. Dog food coupons cannot only decrease your expenses but they can also give you a chance to arrange food for free.
You can easily find these coupons on the internet and do not worry even if you are a first time user of these coupons. The only thing you need to do is to go on a search engine and find various dog food coupons offers on a number of websites. Dog food coupons are usually offered as a promotional strategy by a new dog food manufacturer but there can be a number of other reasons as well. Even the existing companies attract customers through such offers. Some people have misconception that the food that is available through these dog food coupons is expired, however, it is not always the case.
Dog food coupons can also give you a dual benefit. For example, if you have already taken a dog food coupon from a website and when you visit a store which is already offering sale or double coupon days, then you can get double advantage from that coupon. Such schemes can give you an opportunity to save a lot. Your lovely pet can also get a delicious food in this way. There are many people who usually complain that their dogs do not like canned foods. So, even if you buy a canned food and your pet does not like it then you will not feel wastage of money in that case. The reason is that dog food coupon has offered it at a very low cost.
Conscious consumers always go for dog food coupons. Therefore, if you are worried about the high prices of special dog foods, then a dog food coupon can give you a chance to give a cheap and unique taste to your lovely pet.

How to Find a Sitter For Your Dog

Whether your dog is old or a just a puppy, there will come a time when you have to out of town for business or a vacation where dogs aren't allowed. Therefore, you will need to leave your prized pet in the care of a pet sitter. Where can you find a pet sitter? What types of pet sitter services are available? How much will it cost to hire a pet sitter? These are some of the many questions that you need to answer before you hire a pet sitter.

You have two main options of where to leave your pet when you are away. You can take them to a boarding kennel or you can hire a pet sitter. By hiring a pet sitter it means that your dog will stay at your home and a pet sitter will visit your home several times per day to take care of your dog. The following questions and answers are geared toward those pet owners that decide to hire a pet sitter to take care of their dog.

Question #1: Where do I find a pet sitter? You can find a pet sitter through a number of means. Consult your veterinarian, groomer, and breeder for recommendations. Often times they know of a reliable pet sitter in your area or they can point you in the direction of pet sitter services. You can also check with your friends and family to see if they can refer you to a pet sitter. Word of mouth referral is a common way to find a pet sitter.

You can also take a trip to your local pet store or a chain pet store such as PETCO. Many pet sitters advertise their services at these places so you can find their contact information. The pet store owners and staff may know of a great pet sitter as well.

Another option is to call Pet Sitters International at (800) 268-SITS or check out their website at http://www.petsit.com/. Pet Sitters International is the world's largest organization of pet sitters. Pet Sitters International is highly respected organization. They offer a multitude of services including finding a pet sitter based on your zip and giving advice on how to prepare your home for the pet sitter.

Also spend time researching information about the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters by calling them at (800) 296-PETS. You can peruse their website at www.petsitters.org. Not only can you find a pet sitter based on your zip code, but you can find a "certified" pet sitter. They offer a certification program that ensures a pet sitter is knowledgeable about business management, animal care, and animal health issues. This type of certification can be a comfort in the event that your dog has a health problem.

Question #2: What type of tasks does a pet sitter do for you and your pet? A pet sitter is there to provide comfort, help, and care for your dog while you are away. They will visit your home on a daily basis to feed your dog, take them for walks, and let them out to go the bathroom. They can help your dog with any health ailments or continuing care such as medicines while you are away.

A pet sitter needs to be informed if your dog has any special needs. For example, your dog may be elderly and blind or deaf. Your pet sitter must know this so they can properly help your dog. Or your dog may be just a puppy and require more exercise then most dogs. Let your pet sitter know and they can increase the frequency of visits each day. The pet sitter should be able to work with your needs.

Your pet sitter will also take the responsibility of taking your dog to the vet if an accident occurs or the need arises. You need to let your pet sitter know how you want them to handle these types of situations and how to contact you in the event that this happens.

Question #3: How do I find the “best” pet sitter for my dog? Only you can determine the best pet sitter for your dog. Follow the same procedures you would as if you were hiring a babysitter for your children. Check out their references, interview them, and inquire about past work history. How do they interact with your dog? Speak to former or current clients to determine if they are right for you.

Also make sure the pet sitter has been certified and/or bonded and insured. Your dog's life is priceless so you definitely want a serious professional pet sitter to take care of your pooch.

Question #4: How much does a pet sitter cost? The cost of a pet sitter varies based on their experience, your location, the number of dogs you are leaving, and the level of care you need for the dogs. Some pet sitters charge on a per visit basis while others can work with you to determine a reasonable price. Make sure to have their scope of services and fees in writing. This will safeguard you against any miscommunication.

Question #5: How should I prepare my home and dog for the pet sitter? First of all, your dog needs to meet and get to know the pet sitter before you leave town. Have the pet sitter visit a few times until your dog is comfortable with their presence. You don't want to leave and suddenly have a new person show up to take care of your dog. Your dog may confuse the pet sitter for an unwanted stranger.

Provide emergency numbers of your veterinarian and also a number at which they can reach you. You want to make yourself available by phone in case an emergency pops up. Make sure your home is clean and the dog food bowls are clean. Speak with your pet sitter about feeding, walking and other pet care procedures first, but also leave all the directions in writing. Verify that this is plenty of dog food for the length of time you will be gone.

If you following these tips you will find the best pet sitter for your dog and have a comfortable time on your trip knowing your dog is in good hands.

Animals & Dreaming

I came across this article recently, and thought I'd share. Got in a 'discussion' with an acquaintance about animals & dreaming- whenever I get the "but what do you EAT?' question, my standard answer is 'stuff that doesn't dream, play, or care for its young, whose production doesn't strip-mine the planet' (I'm about 95% vegan, but every now & then will eat sustainable fish or shellfish... I'll need to tweak my response a little, if I eventually go that last 5% to full veganity, but for now I think that's a nice quick summary!). The dude in question challenged the idea that chickens dream... Which is beside the point, really-- under my stated guidelines, chickens are covered by at least two other criteria!-- but anyway...

For general education of the masses, who fail to see that the differences between us & our animal cousins (in Darwin's words) is "one of degree, and not of kind," I thought I'd forward this along. I don't approve of keeping rats in labs & such, but this non-invasive study at MIT came up with some hard-science documentation of what is plainly obvious to those who pay attention: other animals (especially other mammals, with a central nervous system that closely parallels humans') are more like us than different, with awareness and thought processes very similar to ours. (DUH!)

Here's the link-- there's more out there, but this one of the best articles I've come across for debate purposes, regarding demonstrable animal thought processes.

For the record: All mammals and birds dream, with the specific amount of REM sleep they get determined by species & environment. Generally species that are more mature at birth demonstrate less dreaming, and animals born needing lots of maternal care spend more time in REM sleep (not jsut as babies, but throughout life). Horses and sheep have to lie down to dream, and may experience less dreaming-time in environments where they don't feel safe enough to do so. Most birds don't dream much, but do spend about 5% of their sleep time in a REM state. Only fish and amphibians have not been observed to have REM sleep. Just in case it ever comes up....

There are so many reasons to eat vegan (or at least MOSTLYvegan!) that this may seem minor- but for me it's a good example of why eating pigs & cows & chickens is deeply disturbing... a little too close to cannibalism, thank you very much!

How to Choose a Horse Rug

There are many different types of horse rugs, with various characteristics and functions. Therefore, the first step to choosing a horse rug is to decide which type you require for your horse. To assist you in this decision, following is a list of the main types of rugs and an explanation of their function:

- Fly Rug. The purpose of this is to protect the horse from flies that bite or sting. They are more commonly and accurately referred to as 'fly sheets' rather than 'fly rugs', as they are typically a thin plastic sheet or mesh, rather than a fabric rug. One can also get 'fly masks', which are made out of the same material and are intended to protect the head (especially the eyes and ears) from flies. As they are a thin sheet they provide little warmth or insulation, although some can provide protection from wind and rain.

- Turnout rugs. These are intended to provide insulation (warmth), to protect horses when they are outside. The amount of warmth depends largely on the amount of insulation, which is typically measured in terms of weight rather than thickness. Consequently, rugs with a moderate amount of insulation are referred to as Lightweight Turnout Rugs, while those intended for maximum warmth are known as Heavy Turnout Rugs. Some turnout rugs are resistant or impervious to rain.

- Coolers. Although they may look like some turnout rugs, their purpose is quite different. They are intended to help the horse dry by 'wicking' moisture away from its coat, and at the same time protecting the horse from cooling while wet (a wet horse can quickly become chilled if it is exposed to cold and/or wind while it has a wet coat). They are typically used after exercise, when the weather is cool or windy, and removed once the horse has dried off. These are also known as 'sweat rugs'.

- Rain sheets. These are typically a thin sheet, with little or no insulation. It is intended to keep the horse dry and can also provide protection from the wind.

- Stable rugs. Also known as 'stable blankets', these are similar to turnout rugs in that they provide warming insulation, but are intended to be used when the horse is stabled rather than when it is outside.

- Saddle rugs. A saddle rug (also known as a 'saddle pad') is placed under the saddle. It provides cushioning between the saddle and the horse, which protects the horse from the relatively hard saddle and at the same time protects the saddle from being rubbed down by the horse. As the horse tends to sweat under the saddle rug, due to the combination of exercise and the warming insulation provided by the saddle rug, some have built in 'wicking' materials to help remove the sweat from the coat.

- Show rugs. A show rug is placed between the saddle and the saddle rug. It is a relatively thin but colourful rug whose main function is look attractive. As it has little or no other practical purpose, it is typically used only during exhibitions or competitions.

- Summer rugs. More commonly known as 'summer sheets', these are thin sheets intended to keep dirt off of the horse's coat (e.g. if it rolls or lies down).

- New Zealand rugs. A turnout rug which is made of waxed canvas. It provides limited warmth but protects well from wind and rain (provided that it is re-waxed as required) and is relatively resistant to damage due to the strong canvas material.

- Riding rugs. These provide protection from the weather but are designed to be worn by the horse when it is being ridden.

Of these various types of horse rugs, perhaps the most commonly used is the turnout rug. The most important factor when choosing this type of rug is to select a rug of the appropriate warmth. Keep in mind that a horse which is too hot can be as uncomfortable as one which is too cold. Furthermore, a rug will discourage the growth of the coat and if too warm will actually result in the horse shedding its coat. Consequently, it is important both that the rug is heavy enough to provide necessary warmth but as the same time is not too warm. The warmth which an individual horse requires will depend on various factors:

- Weather. On a cold winter day, one will need a warmer (heavier) turnout rug than on a cool autumn or spring day. If there is wind, additional protection is required due to the wind chill factor. Likewise, if there is heavy rain, the insulation provided by the horse's coat and by the rug are both reduced, unless they have a rain resistant cover.

- Health and Age. Horses which are young, strong and healthy have less requirement for a warming rug than ones which are not. On a cold day, it may make sense to put a heavy turnout rug on a sick or old horse, when a younger horse in the same field may be fine with a light turnout rug or no rug at all.

- Thickness of coat. A horse with a thick coat will have less need for a rug than one which has a fine coat, or which has been clipped.

- Exhibiting. A horse with a thick coat generally does not look as attractive (in the eyes of most people) as one which has a thinner coat. Consequently, horses being exhibited usually have a rug which is warm enough to discourage growth of their winter coat. Such coats are relatively heavy for the horse's circumstances, as they need to replace the insulation provided by the natural winter coat rather than merely supplement it. Likewise, summer sheets and show rugs are for the needs of the exhibitor rather than the horse.

- Number of rugs. The above factors will determine the number of rugs required. For example, a young and healthy horse in a mild climate may not require a rug at all and may be happier without one. In a colder climate, a healthy horse may need only a light rug to be used during the coldest days. An elderly or sick horse may need multiple rugs, depending on the situation (e.g. uninsulated waterproof coat for summer rain, lightweight turnout rug for autumn or spring, and a heavy turnout rug for winter).

Once one has decided on the type of rug plus (in the case of warming rugs) the required weight, one can then look at the materials, quality and features which you may require. Some common items and features to consider are:

- Antibacterial. Some rugs are treated to be antibacterial.

- Breathable. Breathable rugs allow sweat to evaporate and air to access the coat, features which make the rug more comfortable and healthier.

- Coverage. Rugs generally cover the body. Some also have neck covers, either as part of the rug or an a detachable extra.

- Friction points. Rugs can rub, especially if worn by active horses or when the horse is working. The main points affected are typically around the shoulders and chest. To prevent this, some rugs have anti-friction fabric at these points to allow the rug to easily slide and move without rubbing the coat.

- Hooks, loops, buckles, straps and attachments. These should be strong, easily opened and closed, and firmly attached.

-Insulation. The amount of insulation is typically expressed in grams per square meter. For example, a '300g' rug has 300 grams of insulation per square meter of rug. The actual rug will weigh more than this, as this is only the weight of the insulation itself and does not include the weight of fabric, straps or buckles. In general, the heavier the weight, the warmer the rug. However, this is not a precise measurement as there are different types of insulation, which vary in terms of quality and effectiveness.

- Rain. A rug may be unsuitable for rain, or be rain resistant, or rain proof.

- Tear Resistant or Rip Stop. Rugs may use fabrics or weaves which are resistant to tearing, and in the event of a tear resist the tear becoming larger.

- Washing. Machine washable rugs are more convenient.

- Wicking. Remove sweat and moisture from the coat.

Once you have decided on the above, your requirements should be well defined in terms of type of rug, amount of warmth required and the various features which you would like. At this point, it is mainly down to quality and price. As in most things, you get what you pay for, so the better quality rugs are correspondingly more expensive. If your budget is limited, or you will only use the rug infrequently, then an inexpensive rug may be appropriate. However, if your horse will be using the rug frequently, it is usually worth investing in a better quality rug which will last. In addition, if your horse is active or frequently rolls, it is important to choose a sturdy rug which can resist this use.

How to Keep Birds As Pets

Having Birds as Pets: Responsible Ownership of Pet Birds

There are a lot of people who think that if you want to have a pet bird, it is like buying it and sticking it in a cage. Owning pet birds is not just feeding them when necessary and sometimes changing their paper. You have to be very responsible if you have decided to keep birds as pets. Even if you consider to give them some bird toys, it does not mean that you will have healthy and happy pet bird.It is a great responsibility and if you really want to acquire a companion, think in advance whether you are able to handle.

Before you start, consider a few things which are important if you intend to have a pet bird and after that you have to make the final decision to keep birds as pets or to choose a different type of pet.

Think about the cost

Depending on what pet bird you are going to have and how big it is, the expenses are different. For example, the larger the cage is the more expensive it is. Also there are other supplies, be ready to pay for some additional things.
Not only the cage, the same is with the food- the larger your pet bird is the more food you will need for it. Probably you think that all this sounds really expensive and you are right, do not forget that there are also toys and maintenance of the cage, all of them very important.

There are unexpected costs, for vets ,for example, who are maybe not very helpful with birds and you have to seek for an avian specialist who is very expensive.

Think about the time

You may think that you do not have free time to have a dog so you’d better have a pet bird because they do not require a lot of attention. You are wrong! Some people even do not have time for a nap, they will not have enough time for pets, either. For good bird health it is very important to handle them and play with them as much as you can.
Think about the space

Also there are a lot of people who think that birds do not require a lot of space and they are wrong again. The bigger your bird is the bigger space it needs, so be ready to move out some furniture. They also need to fly so if you do not have space for it, you’d better reconsider the things.

But do not forget the great advantage of having a pet bird- you can have a friend for life if you look after them properly, they are real characters and they bring joy and color in your home. Also they live long and they are commitment for a long period.

Pet Health Questions Concerning Cancer

There are many pet health questions concerning cancer, which is one of the most common reasons for death in pets. Cancer will develop in more than 50% of dogs and cats over the age of 10.

More traditional medical treatments often do not help the stricken animals, but a number of home pet care remedies can be effective.

One of the common pet health questions concerning cancer is what are some signs of the dreaded disease?

A firm lump that grows and does not go away is one sign.
Another is an increased appetite but continued weight loss.
Respiratory problems are another sign and an overall weakness could indicate anemia.

Lymphona and mast cell tumors are the most common spreading cancers in dogs. Lymphoma is the most commonly diagnosed malignant type in cats often secondary to Feline Leukemia Virus infection.

Another one of the common pet health question is what causes the cancer to develop:

Cancer is usually a disease of older dogs and cats with over half the deaths of pets 10 years and older.

The exact causes of cancer are unclear but there is a genetic correlation with an increased incidence in certain breeds. The number one breed of dog diagnosed with cancer is the Golden Retriever with Boxers being a close second.

Exposure to smog, herbicides, and insecticides in the environment plays a big roll.
Preservatives and other chemical additives in pet food may also cause cancer.

The next one in line for common pet health questions: is what can done to prevent the cancer?

The most important thing that you can do to prevent cancer in your pet is to examine what your pet is eating. Healing of our pets can come from within when the body is supported with the building blocks needed to maintain healthy cells and repair damaged ones.

A premium, quality holistic diet, avoiding artificial colors and using a natural preservative is the best. Some dogs thrive on a raw food diet- if you take the proper precautions, then this is a great option.

Carbohydrates and proteins cause cells to thrive but can't grow as fast with fats. Certain veterinary diets have been designed for this, but you can also make your own low-carbohydrate, high-fat cancer diet.

Simple Cancer Diet: 50% chicken/fish, 50% mixed vegetables, 1/2 tsp of olive oil per 10 lbs, salt and garlic to taste.

A supplement is the next most important thing that can be done augment your pet's diet.

The omega 3 essential fatty acids should be added to EVERY pet's diet. These fatty acids are vital in that they are great anti-inflammatories and have been shown to prevent the spread of cancer. Flax is the best source for dogs but for cats, the liquid form is the only option. They should receive it twice daily of Salmon oil or a supplement such as EFA capsules, which can be purchased from your vet.

Flavonoids are also essential for a pet’s diet. These are compounds in a class of their own. They give the bright color to fruits and vegetables. They are antioxidants as well as having anti-cancer properties. These include flavones, (apigenin), isoflavones (genistein), flavanols (quercitin). Purchase a mixed bioflavoniod product that contains polyphenols, particularly EGCG (epigallocatechin-gallate), which is the specific flavonoid isolated from green tea.

Finally antioxidants have been shown to slow the growth and spread of some types of cancer. Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Selenium are the most effective ones.

Why Should You Get a Dog Fence

Owning a dog can be a lot of fun, but it also entails a lot of responsibility. On one hand, a dog can provide you the warmth of sincere companionship, love and protection that is very hard to find nowadays while on the other hand, dogs enjoy running and playing in wide open areas. This could come quite easy if you own a large estate. But for most of us, our yards are simply too small for our best friends. As a result, they often end up wandering away from the lawns and either get lost get teased by the strangers which causes further wretchedness to them.

This is just one of the many reasons why you should install a dog fence as soon as you own a dog. Traditional dog fences are simply comprised of a fence that is made out of aluminum or wood. These are extremely easy to install, and with basic materials that you can purchase from your local hardware store. There are also a number of different fence designs that you can download from the Internet and use to build your own dog fence.

While traditional dog fences are able to serve its purpose of keeping your dog within the confines of your property, its effectiveness is relatively short-lived. Dogs are very smart creatures and over time, they eventually learn to get around the dog fence that you have put up. For this reason, many dog lovers have begun choosing alternative dog fences that are now available at local pet stores and over the Internet. The most popular choices have been electric and wireless dog fences.

Unlike its traditional counterparts, these kinds of fences are made to train dogs to become limited to a certain area of the lawn. Electric and invisible dog fences consist of wires that can be concealed among the bushes and grass around your property and a dog collar. When your dog comes into close contact with the fence, it sends out a signal to the dog collar which results in having a beeping sound and a mild shock to be given to the dog, discouraging the dog to ramble further. Thus not only these fences prevent your dog from running when the gates are open, these alternative dog fences allows you to keep your front and back yards beautiful and inviting, making these more appealing to many dog lovers. Moreover, electric and invisible dog fences can suit dogs of any size. This means that you do not have to increase the height of your fence should you and your entire family decide to get a much larger dog in the future.

Training Your Dog with Treats

Giving dog treats is a popular part of training your pet. Most of the pet owners love to pamper their dogs with treats during their training sessions or to restrain them from chewing almost anything and everything around. These days a wide range of natural dog treats that promise to be tasty as well as healthy are widely available in markets.
What are Bull Sticks?

Bull sticks are popularly termed as beef sticks, steer stix, pizzle sticks and beef pizzles. Bull sticks are one of the many varieties of dog treats available in the market. Unlike rawhide bones, these treats are made out of the beef of cow and not from the hide. This makes bull sticks easy to digest without the risk of increasing obesity. This kind of dog treat has high protein content that keeps the pet healthy and energetic. Bull sticks are rich in taurine, an amino that prevents unnecessary health disorders in your pet.

Bull sticks are available in numerous shapes and sizes. Some pet owners prefer flavoured bull sticks. There are companies who manufacture braided bull sticks which strengthens the teeth and jaw muscles of dogs. Chewing of bull sticks can ward off the unwanted growth of tarter and plaque in your pet's mouth. Some brands produce natural bull sticks without any preservatives, added colours, chemicals, antibiotics, hormones or steroids. Dogs simply love to gorge on their bull sticks mainly because of the natural flavour and smell of animal flesh.

Are Bull Sticks safe?

Pet owners prefer bull sticks as a natural, safe, and healthy chew for their dogs. Bull sticks are made to ease out the chewing and teething problems of your growing puppy. Pets habituated to chewing bull sticks usually have stronger jaws and fewer cavity problems. Bull sticks last longer because they are harder than the other varieties of dog treats. Hence it gratifies the pet's urge to keep chewing.

It is advisable that pet owners conduct substantial research before picking up a particular brand of bull stick for their pet. One should never compromise on the quality of the treat as that can wreck havoc on the health of the pet.

Providing Bedding for Large Pets

If you really care for your pet and love him then you'd surely look after the things that provide him comfort. And this can be quite a venture if you own a large breed of pet. Though, no one needs to worry about it any more since Mammoth Pet Beds are easily available in extra large sizes. Therefore, if you own a large pet you should really consider about purchasing Mammoth Pet Beds for your four legged friend.

The next best reason to purchase Mammoth Pet Beds is the comfort they provide to your pet. If you’re pet is a large breed it is a lot more complicated to make them at ease. Think about it; does any one like to lie down on the floor? Is it comfortable? No we don't, and if it isn't easy for us would it be easy for them? It also depends on the breed of the pet; if it is a large sized pet then it would be a larger painful process. Mammoth Pet Beds provide a better level of comfort to your pet. Mammoth Pet Beds are designed with such fabrics that give an assurance of complete rest and comfort to your pet while he is asleep.

Do you keep worrying that your pet isn't feeling at ease? Why then do you keep on kicking your pet off of the sofa or easy chair? These are some of the places that they really feel relaxed in while asleep and those are the same places that you might have to work with. Therefore, Mammoth Pet Beds come off as a convenience for the people who own pets. If you provide your pet with their special place to sleep or rest then they wouldn't come out invading your area. A pet invading your area isn't very bad, but some times you really cannot accommodate them.

A special space for the pet must also be considered when you want to clean the house. Your pet, being an animal is common to getting dirty and making your furniture dirty. If the pet has just returned back after playing outside, their paws and body might be filthy and you really do not want them to hit upon your bed or other furniture. There are health concerns also attached with it. Mammoth Pet Beds can reduce your concerns.

Do not think that owning a large breed pet or any pet is trouble. You do not have to forgo their comfort. You can demonstrate your love by buying a Mammoth pet bed, since even he is a part of your family. Therefore, when considering the comfort of your pet or your handiness you just need to consider Mammoth pet beds.

Pet Health Questions Concerning Cancer

There are many pet health questions concerning cancer, which is one of the most common reasons for death in pets. Cancer will develop in more than 50% of dogs and cats over the age of 10.

More traditional medical treatments often do not help the stricken animals, but a number of home pet care remedies can be effective.

One of the common pet health questions concerning cancer is what are some signs of the dreaded disease?

A firm lump that grows and does not go away is one sign.
Another is an increased appetite but continued weight loss.
Respiratory problems are another sign and an overall weakness could indicate anemia.

Lymphona and mast cell tumors are the most common spreading cancers in dogs. Lymphoma is the most commonly diagnosed malignant type in cats often secondary to Feline Leukemia Virus infection.

Another one of the common pet health question is what causes the cancer to develop:

Cancer is usually a disease of older dogs and cats with over half the deaths of pets 10 years and older.

The exact causes of cancer are unclear but there is a genetic correlation with an increased incidence in certain breeds. The number one breed of dog diagnosed with cancer is the Golden Retriever with Boxers being a close second.

Exposure to smog, herbicides, and insecticides in the environment plays a big roll.
Preservatives and other chemical additives in pet food may also cause cancer.

The next one in line for common pet health questions: is what can done to prevent the cancer?

The most important thing that you can do to prevent cancer in your pet is to examine what your pet is eating. Healing of our pets can come from within when the body is supported with the building blocks needed to maintain healthy cells and repair damaged ones.

A premium, quality holistic diet, avoiding artificial colors and using a natural preservative is the best. Some dogs thrive on a raw food diet- if you take the proper precautions, then this is a great option.

Carbohydrates and proteins cause cells to thrive but can't grow as fast with fats. Certain veterinary diets have been designed for this, but you can also make your own low-carbohydrate, high-fat cancer diet.

Simple Cancer Diet: 50% chicken/fish, 50% mixed vegetables, 1/2 tsp of olive oil per 10 lbs, salt and garlic to taste.

A supplement is the next most important thing that can be done augment your pet's diet.

The omega 3 essential fatty acids should be added to EVERY pet's diet. These fatty acids are vital in that they are great anti-inflammatories and have been shown to prevent the spread of cancer. Flax is the best source for dogs but for cats, the liquid form is the only option. They should receive it twice daily of Salmon oil or a supplement such as EFA capsules, which can be purchased from your vet.

Flavonoids are also essential for a pet’s diet. These are compounds in a class of their own. They give the bright color to fruits and vegetables. They are antioxidants as well as having anti-cancer properties. These include flavones, (apigenin), isoflavones (genistein), flavanols (quercitin). Purchase a mixed bioflavoniod product that contains polyphenols, particularly EGCG (epigallocatechin-gallate), which is the specific flavonoid isolated from green tea.

Finally antioxidants have been shown to slow the growth and spread of some types of cancer. Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Selenium are the most effective ones.

There are supplements which contain Essential Fatty Acids and antioxidants, as well as a special Immune Support Blend that can help prevent or fight cancer in your dog. There is an excellent supplement listed in my bio.

Betta Care: Points to Remember

Once you have chosen the living space for your betta fish, then you are almost ready to add your fish to their new environment but there are some important points that you should take into account for optimum betta care to keep your fish free from danger and disease and to keep them healthy.

When decorating your bettas home you should:

1. Take care to avoid jagged rocks and decorations because the betta fish could tear their fins on these. Stick to smooth surfaces when thinking about optimum betta care.

2. Make sure that you avoid any hard plastic plants as they can damage the bettas fins because they can be quite rough. If you are not sure about the roughness of the plants, then why not try the pantyhose test. Rub the plastic plant over a pair of pantyhose and if they snag or rip them then this means that the plants might damage the bettas fins. To be safe, by silk plants to increase betta care and happiness.

3. You dont have to use live plants but they can be a great addition to the betta fish tanks. Bettas enjoy hiding in the leaves to sleep and they can be much prettier than silk plants- and gentler on the bettas fins.

Another important point to consider when it comes to betta care is the water preparation. You should always use a water conditioner for any fish when putting tap water into a tank, and it is important to note that chlorine in the water can be harmful to betta fish. You can also let the water stand for a few days to remove the chlorine, but it is still very important to use a conditioner to remove chloramines.

When you fill your tank, you should fill it to about 80% of its capacity if it is an open top tank because when motivated, betta fish can jump over 3 inches! And you dont want your fish to leap out all over the place. you can use a mesh cloth which sits over the top of the tank so that the fish are not encouraged to jump and your can add extra water which will make the betta fish happier and can access the surface air easier. Before you add the fish to the tank, be sure to test the temperature of the water, it must be maintained at 78-82 degrees so a small heater will make this easier to do because the water temperature is often cooler than room temperature. You are now ready to add your betta fish to the tank!

Cleaning Up Pet Messes at Home

Its inevitable. Even the best pets make messes sometimes. Heres how to clean them up, as painlessly as possible.

Pet Piddle

If your cat misses the litter box or your dog has an accident on the rug, you dont have to live with the pungent reminders of accidents past. Pet accident on carpet and upholstery can be removed, especially if you attack them while theyre still fresh.

Start by soaking up excess liquid with a white rag or paper towels. Blot on a solution of one-quarter teaspoon of mild liquid laundry detergent and one cup of warm water. Repeat until there is no more stain transferring to your towel or rag. If needed, follow the detergent application with a solution of one cup white vinegar to two cups water. Blot dry.

Finally, cover the area with several layers of paper towels weighed down with a heavy, nonfading object. Continue changing the paper towels until the carpet is dry.

Pet Poop

Gently scoop up excess with a spoon or spatula. Deposit into a bag that you can immediately take outside.

Blot with the vinegar ammonia solution as described above. Allow the area to soak for several minutes. Blot and repeat until the stain is removed. Rinse with cold water. Blot dry.

To remove lingering carpet odors, sprinkle baking soda on the spot. Let it sit overnight, and then vacuum. If you cant remove either stain, however, consider recovering the furniture item or replacing the carpet. This might also be a great time to consider the benefits of a good dog trainer.

Litter Boxes

Its a messy task but someone has to do it. Its handy to keep all of your litter-box-cleaning tools together near the litter box: liners (great to cut down on weekly cleanings), scooper, gloves, and bags.

Each day, scoop the lumps out of your litter box as many times a day as you have cats. (Using a clumping litter helps tremendously with this task.) For example, we have two cats so my daughter scoops once in the morning and once before bed, wearing gloves and disposing of the scoopables outside, of course.

Each week, take the litter box outside for a thorough cleaning.

First empty the contents into the garbage. Then, using a scraper, dislodge any lumps of wet litter remaining. Fill the empty box with hot water, and then add a half-cup of bleach. Allow this mixture to sit and disinfect for at least 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, allow to dry in the sun outdoors, or use clean rags to dry.

Add fresh litter.