If you really care for your pet and love him then you'd surely look after the things that provide him comfort. And this can be quite a venture if you own a large breed of pet. Though, no one needs to worry about it any more since Mammoth Pet Beds are easily available in extra large sizes. Therefore, if you own a large pet you should really consider about purchasing Mammoth Pet Beds for your four legged friend.
The next best reason to purchase Mammoth Pet Beds is the comfort they provide to your pet. If you’re pet is a large breed it is a lot more complicated to make them at ease. Think about it; does any one like to lie down on the floor? Is it comfortable? No we don't, and if it isn't easy for us would it be easy for them? It also depends on the breed of the pet; if it is a large sized pet then it would be a larger painful process. Mammoth Pet Beds provide a better level of comfort to your pet. Mammoth Pet Beds are designed with such fabrics that give an assurance of complete rest and comfort to your pet while he is asleep.
Do you keep worrying that your pet isn't feeling at ease? Why then do you keep on kicking your pet off of the sofa or easy chair? These are some of the places that they really feel relaxed in while asleep and those are the same places that you might have to work with. Therefore, Mammoth Pet Beds come off as a convenience for the people who own pets. If you provide your pet with their special place to sleep or rest then they wouldn't come out invading your area. A pet invading your area isn't very bad, but some times you really cannot accommodate them.
A special space for the pet must also be considered when you want to clean the house. Your pet, being an animal is common to getting dirty and making your furniture dirty. If the pet has just returned back after playing outside, their paws and body might be filthy and you really do not want them to hit upon your bed or other furniture. There are health concerns also attached with it. Mammoth Pet Beds can reduce your concerns.
Do not think that owning a large breed pet or any pet is trouble. You do not have to forgo their comfort. You can demonstrate your love by buying a Mammoth pet bed, since even he is a part of your family. Therefore, when considering the comfort of your pet or your handiness you just need to consider Mammoth pet beds.
Showing posts with label animals articles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label animals articles. Show all posts
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Good Western Racing Horses
Whenever the term "Western horse" is used, most people picture a rough-and-tumble rodeo - an event full of color but so full of danger, too, that no youngster would be permitted to enter the regular events. What few people realize is that many small, country horse shows have classes open to Western horses. The wide range of these local shows gives them their importance to the show world, and if you own a Western horse, you should pay attention so you'll know about the shows in time to enter your horse.In case you strongly prefer western riding, you don't have to worry about being left out of the fun - or change your style simply because you thought all horse shows were exclusively for English riders. "Well," you may be thinking, "all I have to do, then, is to pick out the kind of horse I want and then use a western saddle and bridle on him. That's just fine."But it isn't quite as simple as that! You wouldn't advise a person about to go on a hunt to use an American saddle horse on the chase. You'd suggest he use a thoroughbred - or a horse with thoroughbred characteristics. The same standards of suitability hold true if you're picking out a Western horse for yourself. Suppose that, during your excursions to find a horse, a big, long-limbed thoroughbred strikes you as a handsome animal - one you'd like to own. After all, you reason, he has speed, courage, stamina - just right for a Western horse.Strictly in terms of breeds, the Morgan and the Arabian offer good Western horse prospects.Both are small horses and have plenty of strength and endurance. The Morgan is compact and therefore good at making fast turns, stops and starts. The Arabian is traditionally a desert horse and so is capable of working on little food and foraging for himself. Also, he has a perfect canter.However good Morgans and Arabians may be, an important western breed we haven't yet talked about is the quarter horse. Every Westerner will boast of the qualities of this breed, but the fact is that the quarter horse had his beginnings in the East - in Virginia.In the late 1600's, Virginia gentlemen enjoyed racing their stock but there were no big race tracks available. They would use stretches of road near the towns - the road lap usually being about a quarter of a mile long. The distance became standardized and men began to breed horses especially for these quarter-mile races. Usually the breeder combined imported English horses either with the speedy little runners developed by the Chickasaw Indians or with a Rhode Island variety which had come down from New England and competed successfully against earlier Virginia horses. Then a horse named Janus, an English racer with thoroughbred bloodlines, was imported and began to transmit his characteristics to all his offspring. In time, the entire breed was influenced by the speed and power he passed on to his foals, and, as sprinters, Quarter horses became unbeatable. Then, when racetracks were built, the Easterners gave up the quarter Horse in favor of thoroughbred racing on longer tracks. But ranchers and cowboys soon discovered that the compactness of the quarter horse enabled him to turn quickly and stop short. In fact, many people who want a Western horse get a quarter horse. Western horses come in all shapes and sizes, you just need to find the one that's right for you.
Do you need a dog?
Once in the street you have seen it. Alternatively, you were on a visit at friends and saw it. The colleague has brought photos and you saw it. In general, it is not important where and under what circumstances it has happened. It is not important, what dog you saw. Important is, that you had the idea "Should I have a dog?"And you start to think, what exactly will be changed in your life after appearance of a dog. It turns out, that when you have a dog you get more negative things than positive ones.The dog takes away a lot of free time (which you could spend for yourself). You have to get up early and run out in the street at any weather. Then you have to wash its paws pulling and pushing your dog to bathroom (some dogs do not like it) and then catch the wet pat if it managed to escape from your hands. After catching, washing and drying the dog you have to feed it. If the dog eats the fodder, it is not difficult, but what if it likes natural feed.When you leave, you should hide all your things beyond the reach of the dog, because many of them staying alone and longing for the owner begin to chew all his stuff.Some dogs crush apartments. However, having returned, you cannot even swear as it was made of melancholy and love to you (is it possible to abuse for love?). Moreover, it was so long ago, that the dog has already forgotten and does not connect punishment with such trifle as the spoiled door or the wallpaper removed from walls, and connects it only with the arrival of the owner. Hence, punishment is not only senseless, but also harmful! While working, you will think what exactly will be rotten, chewed, crippled and slavered today and up to what degree it will be done. What will your neighbours tell you? Many dogs accompany the melancholy with howling. Not all neighbors adore your dog just as you and they do not consider that â€this terrible howl†œthis terrible howl†is music. You have to walk a lot with your dog because it was alone at homeIt is your problem if you still did not eat and drink! After walking couple of hours (in spite of what the weather is outdoor) you have to repeat a trick with washing and drying dog's paws, clean your apartment and then you can start to cook a supper not for yourself or your family but for the dog! You should feed your dog first because it has the regimen and the breaking of this regimen will cost you more expensively, than the disturbing of your own one. However, from the dominance point of view, you should take into account that your dog must eat after you. In the evening you must take care of your dog's hair (longhaired dogs should be scratched, sleek-haired dogs should be cleaned with a rubber mitten, wire-haired dogs should be trimmed, bare dogs should be smeared with creams). However, you may not do this, if you like to wash your apartment from dog'™s paws, clean your apartment and then you can start to cook a supper not for yourself or your family but for the dog! You should feed your dog first because it has the regimen and the breaking of this regimen will cost you more expensively, than the disturbing of your own one. However, from the dominance point of view, you should take into account that your dog must eat after you. In the evening you must take care of your dog’s hair (longhaired dogs shouldYou have to spend a lot of money. Forages, ammunition, toys, vitamins, vermifugal drugs and vaccines - all this costs much more expensively, than the similar goods for people. Then services of the ringmaster, groomer and veterinarian go. If you got the exhibition specimen, if you are lucky and your dog wins, you will receive nice ribbon and if not, you will get handshake of the expert and a piece of paper with the description. To tell the truth, nowadays valuable prizes are given on the large international exhibitions, but not everyone can get them, and participation, preparation and travel will cost you such sum that it would be easier to purchase these prizes in a shop. If you decide that your dog must have posterity, you will have to spend large amount of money. You should not expect that having sold pups, you would suddenly grow rich. First, you should find, who will by it. To make money on dogs it is necessary to be serious professional (not only in cynology, but also in business) or to have luck, which extremely seldom happens! What will you do if the dog is ill? There is nothing to speak about. Do you still want to get a dog?Dog is a source of mud and illnesses. The mud falls of a dog'™s paws, a spit runs of a mouth, and finally its hair comes out. Dogs have the habit to defecate in apartment up to the certain age, and some of them keep this "nice" habit during all the life. Besides, the dog (in most cases) eats not so accurately, and on eaten wipes a muzzle using you and your furniture. Dogs periodically pick different rubbish in the street that is why the dog smells like rubbish. Do not forget that after picking the rubbish the dog will feel sick at home. Have I still not convinced you?The dog has ability to spoil your mutual relations with other people. You will quarrel with parents (which are not pleased, that you pay less attention to them, than before appearance of a dog). Your relations with neighbors will be spoiled as the dog barks when you are at home, howls when you are not present, missing you, it also defecates near the house, frightens small children and old men with its awful outward. If you will get a serious dog, you may quarrel with the dear person if your dog does not like him or her. However, it is possible to a meet a dog lover and then to combine appointments with the dog walks. Your friends will stop visiting you because of its hair, mud and a dribbling head on the knees when your friend eats. You cannot take the dog with you since mud, hair and spittle in apartments of friends will please them even less, than in your apartment.Have you changed your mind? Do you consider, what all this is a trifle comparing with an adoring dog view? Then you really need the dog and it is not clear how you lived without it until now! If you can live without a dog - do not have it! Well, and if you cannot… I congratulate you, you have become one of us!
Top Reasons to Training Dog Trick
Sit! Roll over! Jump! Teaching your dog tricks might not be the easiest thing in the world, but it's highly beneficial to you and your dog. Teaching your dog tricks can help strengthen your relationship with your beloved pet in many ways. Below are some great reasons why you should start teaching your dog tricks.1. Make everyone safe- While learning to teach your dog tricks, you learn many training techniques which can also be used to gain control over your dog. Teaching him basic tricks like sit and stay can also be used in life situations like crossing the street or entering a store.2. Give Your Dog Something to Do- It doesn't take long before your dog gets bored and decides to take on a new hobby of chewing anything in sight, including your brand new sofa. Teaching your dog tricks will keep him focused on the task at hand, and will entertain him for hours!3. Help Keep Your Dog's Mind Sharp- Training your dog will keep his mind active and responsive. As dogs get older they become less physically active, but learning tricks will keep his mind active and alert. 4. Help Create a Better Bond between You and Your Dog- Your dog will look up to you as being the pack leader, and will listen to you instead of trying to get your attention in destructive ways. Best of all, once your dog learns tricks you two become a team when training or performing.5. Show Off- You can show off your dog if you teach it some cool tricks, and your dog will get people's attention. Dogs love attention and they love being in the spotlight so they will like performing in front of your friends and family. Of course, you will also get the recognition of being a star trainer.6. Make Vet Check Ups Easier- Both the veterinarian and you hate it when your dog can't control itself during a check up. If you teach it to be calm during the check up, it will make both of your lives easier, and you won't control itself during a check up. If you7. Gives Your Dog a Hobby- We all have hobbies we like to do such as watching TV or playing games, but dogs also need things to do. Training dog tricks is great to do on rainy days when you can't take him for a walk.If these reasons have inspired you to teach your dog tricks, then you've come to the right place. Dog Trick Academy and our community is devoted to help teach your dog tricks, we keep it fun and entertaining!
Friday, September 25, 2009
HOW HORSES SLEEP
How horses sleep: What does your horse need to sleep well? Maybe not what you think, say equine-behavior experts.
You're at a show, and it's almost time to warm up for your next class. Butterflies are starting to flap up a storm in your stomach. You glance over at your horse. Is he feeling the excitement?
Nope. He's standing next to you with eyes closed and head hanging. How could he sleep at a time like this?
A comfortable bed, darkness, privacy, and eight hours of peace and quiet-that's what you need to sleep well. But your horse's needs are very different. Knowing about those differences can help you ensure that he gets the rest he needs.
"Horses have sleep patterns typical for prey species that evolved on open plains," says Sue McDonnell, PhD, head of the Equine Behavior Lab at the University of Pennsylvania's School of Veterinary Medicine. There isn't a huge body of research on equine sleep, she notes. But over the past twenty years or so, she's gathered detailed data on the daily behaviors--including sleep patterns--of stabled and feral horses in a wide range of settings throughout the world. Here, she and two other equine-behavior experts will share their insights--so read on to learn your horse's sleep secrets...and what he needs to sleep best.
To Sleep, Perchance to Flee
Not every horse falls asleep waiting around at a show, but all horses can sleep standing up. Your horse has a sort of internal hammock-a system of tendons and ligaments called the stay apparatus. This system lets him lock his legs in position so (unlike you) he can relax his muscles and doze off without keeling over. Even when he's not sleeping, he uses the stay apparatus to rest muscles and reduce fatigue.
Being able to sleep standing up is a great advantage for a prey animal. If a mountain lion comes creeping through the underbrush, the horse can be off and running without wasting precious seconds struggling to his feet. Horses plan for a quick getaway in choosing resting places, too. Out in the open, they go for sheltered areas but position themselves to get out fast--butts to the windbreak, heads pointing toward a likely escape route. "They're like volunteer firemen who back their cars into parking spaces so they can pull out fast," Sue McDonnell says. In many cases, even horses in box stalls rest standing toward the back of the stall, facing the door.
Down Time
Even though they're able to snooze standing, horses apparently need to lie down for rest and sleep at least some of the time. In fact, scientists think horses must lie down to go into deep stages of sleep. Like humans and many other animals, horses experience both slow-wave sleep (SWS) and rapid-eye-movement (REM) deep sleep. (SWS is characterized by slow, synchronized waves of electrical activity in the brain as recorded by electroencephalography. REM sleep is characterized by jerky eye movements and rapid, disorganized brain waves.) REM sleep seems to occur mostly when the horse is stretched out flat on his side, rather than resting on his chest.
People dream during REM sleep, and it seems that horses do, too. Beneath closed lids, their eyes move rapidly back and forth. Sue McDonnell has even seen some horses move their feet as if "trotting" in their dreams. But what horses dream about is anyone's guess.
Power Naps
Studies of herds of wild and semi-wild horses show that horses take "power naps" and use the buddy system to get the rest they need while keeping safe from predators.
If you're like most people, you need a good, solid eight hours of unbroken rest every night. If you don't get it, you drag through the following day dull, drowsy, and sleep-deprived. You might assume that your horse has similar needs. But according to Sue McDonnell, horses do well with far less sleep than people.
Horses typically spend anywhere from four to fifteen hours a day in standing rest, and anywhere from minutes to several hours lying down. Only part of that is actual sleep time, taken in brief naps that last a few minutes each. The daily total sleep time for an adult horse may range from a few minutes to a couple of hours. Foals and young horses, like other youngsters, sleep more, more deeply, and more often than adults.
This pattern is another plus for a prey animal: His sleep can be interrupted repeatedly by predators and false alarms, but he'll still function. Rarely does a horse suffer from true sleep deprivation, says Sue McDonnell. The minimum amount of deep (lying-down) sleep he needs is very small--perhaps an hour in many days. Still, if he doesn't get that minimum, he eventually begins to drift off into what appears to be deep sleep while standing-and buckles at the knees.
Where you want your rest in a solid block of time, horses spread theirs out in scattered periods throughout the day and night. According to Sue McDonnell, "For any horse or group of horses, there is usually a recurrent pattern of rest and other activities," such as grazing. The pattern varies with the weather, the season and what's going on around the horse. Stabled horses, affected by the activity around them, typically get much of their sleep during the evening and early morning hours.
"Horses tend to learn the pattern of the barn," Sue McDonnell says, "and their deepest rest and sleep tend to occur soon after the busy 'people day' ends."
Buddy System
You're probably not surprised to hear that horses sleep best when they feel safe from danger. But the factors that help them feel safe may not be what you think. When you put your horse in his stall and close the door, you know he's protected. But he likely feels isolated and confined-and for a horse, isolation and confinement can be dangerous.
As part of her work at U of P, Sue McDonnell has studied the behavior of a semi-wild herd of ponies over time. She says feral horses actually sleep more than stabled horses. They also get more down time: As members of a herd, they're able to relax because one horse acts as a sentinel, standing guard while the rest snooze. "In feral groups, all individuals tend to rest together, eat together, go to water together. The young may get additional rest and sleep during grazing, with the protection of the adults." The adults share the sentinel duty, so everybody gets to lie down.
Solitary adult horses tend to get less deep sleep than horses in groups--probably because, with no sentinel on guard duty, and no other horses to help deal with danger, the solo horse feels he has to look out for himself at all times. He startles out of sleep at the slightest disturbance. In many cases you'll see horses stabled next to each other rest standing against the two sides of their shared stall wall, Sue McDonnell says--probably to take advantage of the sentinel effect.
You're at a show, and it's almost time to warm up for your next class. Butterflies are starting to flap up a storm in your stomach. You glance over at your horse. Is he feeling the excitement?
Nope. He's standing next to you with eyes closed and head hanging. How could he sleep at a time like this?
A comfortable bed, darkness, privacy, and eight hours of peace and quiet-that's what you need to sleep well. But your horse's needs are very different. Knowing about those differences can help you ensure that he gets the rest he needs.
"Horses have sleep patterns typical for prey species that evolved on open plains," says Sue McDonnell, PhD, head of the Equine Behavior Lab at the University of Pennsylvania's School of Veterinary Medicine. There isn't a huge body of research on equine sleep, she notes. But over the past twenty years or so, she's gathered detailed data on the daily behaviors--including sleep patterns--of stabled and feral horses in a wide range of settings throughout the world. Here, she and two other equine-behavior experts will share their insights--so read on to learn your horse's sleep secrets...and what he needs to sleep best.
To Sleep, Perchance to Flee
Not every horse falls asleep waiting around at a show, but all horses can sleep standing up. Your horse has a sort of internal hammock-a system of tendons and ligaments called the stay apparatus. This system lets him lock his legs in position so (unlike you) he can relax his muscles and doze off without keeling over. Even when he's not sleeping, he uses the stay apparatus to rest muscles and reduce fatigue.
Being able to sleep standing up is a great advantage for a prey animal. If a mountain lion comes creeping through the underbrush, the horse can be off and running without wasting precious seconds struggling to his feet. Horses plan for a quick getaway in choosing resting places, too. Out in the open, they go for sheltered areas but position themselves to get out fast--butts to the windbreak, heads pointing toward a likely escape route. "They're like volunteer firemen who back their cars into parking spaces so they can pull out fast," Sue McDonnell says. In many cases, even horses in box stalls rest standing toward the back of the stall, facing the door.
Down Time
Even though they're able to snooze standing, horses apparently need to lie down for rest and sleep at least some of the time. In fact, scientists think horses must lie down to go into deep stages of sleep. Like humans and many other animals, horses experience both slow-wave sleep (SWS) and rapid-eye-movement (REM) deep sleep. (SWS is characterized by slow, synchronized waves of electrical activity in the brain as recorded by electroencephalography. REM sleep is characterized by jerky eye movements and rapid, disorganized brain waves.) REM sleep seems to occur mostly when the horse is stretched out flat on his side, rather than resting on his chest.
People dream during REM sleep, and it seems that horses do, too. Beneath closed lids, their eyes move rapidly back and forth. Sue McDonnell has even seen some horses move their feet as if "trotting" in their dreams. But what horses dream about is anyone's guess.
Power Naps
Studies of herds of wild and semi-wild horses show that horses take "power naps" and use the buddy system to get the rest they need while keeping safe from predators.
If you're like most people, you need a good, solid eight hours of unbroken rest every night. If you don't get it, you drag through the following day dull, drowsy, and sleep-deprived. You might assume that your horse has similar needs. But according to Sue McDonnell, horses do well with far less sleep than people.
Horses typically spend anywhere from four to fifteen hours a day in standing rest, and anywhere from minutes to several hours lying down. Only part of that is actual sleep time, taken in brief naps that last a few minutes each. The daily total sleep time for an adult horse may range from a few minutes to a couple of hours. Foals and young horses, like other youngsters, sleep more, more deeply, and more often than adults.
This pattern is another plus for a prey animal: His sleep can be interrupted repeatedly by predators and false alarms, but he'll still function. Rarely does a horse suffer from true sleep deprivation, says Sue McDonnell. The minimum amount of deep (lying-down) sleep he needs is very small--perhaps an hour in many days. Still, if he doesn't get that minimum, he eventually begins to drift off into what appears to be deep sleep while standing-and buckles at the knees.
Where you want your rest in a solid block of time, horses spread theirs out in scattered periods throughout the day and night. According to Sue McDonnell, "For any horse or group of horses, there is usually a recurrent pattern of rest and other activities," such as grazing. The pattern varies with the weather, the season and what's going on around the horse. Stabled horses, affected by the activity around them, typically get much of their sleep during the evening and early morning hours.
"Horses tend to learn the pattern of the barn," Sue McDonnell says, "and their deepest rest and sleep tend to occur soon after the busy 'people day' ends."
Buddy System
You're probably not surprised to hear that horses sleep best when they feel safe from danger. But the factors that help them feel safe may not be what you think. When you put your horse in his stall and close the door, you know he's protected. But he likely feels isolated and confined-and for a horse, isolation and confinement can be dangerous.
As part of her work at U of P, Sue McDonnell has studied the behavior of a semi-wild herd of ponies over time. She says feral horses actually sleep more than stabled horses. They also get more down time: As members of a herd, they're able to relax because one horse acts as a sentinel, standing guard while the rest snooze. "In feral groups, all individuals tend to rest together, eat together, go to water together. The young may get additional rest and sleep during grazing, with the protection of the adults." The adults share the sentinel duty, so everybody gets to lie down.
Solitary adult horses tend to get less deep sleep than horses in groups--probably because, with no sentinel on guard duty, and no other horses to help deal with danger, the solo horse feels he has to look out for himself at all times. He startles out of sleep at the slightest disturbance. In many cases you'll see horses stabled next to each other rest standing against the two sides of their shared stall wall, Sue McDonnell says--probably to take advantage of the sentinel effect.
Does your horse eat like a pig?
Yes! Then acorns are one porcine delicacy he should avoid.
Acorns are seeds or nuts produced by oak trees. There are more than 60 varieties of oaks in the continental United States. The bark, leaves and acorns contain an acidic chemical commonly known as tannin.
Tannin has a bitter taste and is an astringent (contracts tissues and draws out fluids). It can damage the liver and kidneys of horses. Tannin also interferes with the utilization of protein.
All plants contain some level of tannin. Oaks contain high levels. Within the family of oaks, red or black oak varieties contain the most tannin; white oak varieties contain the least. Buds and early spring leaves have a higher concentration of tannin than mature leaves. Green acorns have a higher concentration than ripe acorns.
Live Oak Acorns
Squirrels, birds and deer eat acorns with no apparent problems. These free roaming species search out the less bitter tasting acorn varieties (less bitter means a lower tannin level). Stored and ripe acorns that have been soaked due to rain will also be lower in tannin. Tannin is water soluble and leaches out. It is important to note these animals have access to other foods which will help buffer and dilute the tannin.
Poisoning due to the ingestion of acorns is rare in horses which have access to plenty of good quality forage. An occasional acorn throughout the day should not harm a healthy horse with a digestive system full of long-stem fiber.
The ingestion of buds and spring leaves should be avoided. Make sure low hanging or broken branches are removed before they can be eaten. Providing plenty of forage will help deter horses from eating these forbidden windfalls.
Occasionally a horse will develop a taste for acorns. Such an individual would rather eat acorns than good quality forage. If your horse is one of these fanatics you will have to remove the horse from the pasture which contains the forbidden nut.
The signs of acorn poisoning can be: loss of appetite, excessive salivation, blood in the urine or manure, colic-like pain, slow or irregular heart-rate, elevated temperature, pale mucous membranes, watery eyes and a depressed attitude. In the early stages manure is hard and dark in color; the horse may be constipated. Often, in the later stage, the manure changes to diarrhea. Mouth ulcers may form; salvia may escape from the nose. In extreme cases liver and kidney failure ensues and other organs begin to hemorrhage. Some poisoned horses may founder.
Horses that are extremely sensitive to tannin or have eaten large quantities of oak leaves, bark or acorns may die.
If your horse develops acorn poisoning there is no antidote. The common treatment is supportive care. The affected horse must be removed from the source of the poisoning. Your veterinarian will probably give intravenous fluids to help flush out the toxins. Mineral oil and charcoal may be given to help rid the digestive system of the tannin. Hay and water is made available, which also helps dilute the poisonous material in the digestive system. Your veterinarian may also give pain killers to help make your horse more comfortable.
The best thing for the health of your horses and trees is to protect them from each other. Horses are hard on trees. They disturb the root system, chew the bark when bored and rub the branches. Forests or woods do not make good pasture. Fence off any trees. If the trees are providing shelter or shade erect a horse-safe structure, such as a three-sided loafing shed.
There is nothing more beautiful than a majestic oak tree and a horse - they just shouldn't be in the same picture.
Acorns are seeds or nuts produced by oak trees. There are more than 60 varieties of oaks in the continental United States. The bark, leaves and acorns contain an acidic chemical commonly known as tannin.
Tannin has a bitter taste and is an astringent (contracts tissues and draws out fluids). It can damage the liver and kidneys of horses. Tannin also interferes with the utilization of protein.
All plants contain some level of tannin. Oaks contain high levels. Within the family of oaks, red or black oak varieties contain the most tannin; white oak varieties contain the least. Buds and early spring leaves have a higher concentration of tannin than mature leaves. Green acorns have a higher concentration than ripe acorns.
Live Oak Acorns
Squirrels, birds and deer eat acorns with no apparent problems. These free roaming species search out the less bitter tasting acorn varieties (less bitter means a lower tannin level). Stored and ripe acorns that have been soaked due to rain will also be lower in tannin. Tannin is water soluble and leaches out. It is important to note these animals have access to other foods which will help buffer and dilute the tannin.
Poisoning due to the ingestion of acorns is rare in horses which have access to plenty of good quality forage. An occasional acorn throughout the day should not harm a healthy horse with a digestive system full of long-stem fiber.
The ingestion of buds and spring leaves should be avoided. Make sure low hanging or broken branches are removed before they can be eaten. Providing plenty of forage will help deter horses from eating these forbidden windfalls.
Occasionally a horse will develop a taste for acorns. Such an individual would rather eat acorns than good quality forage. If your horse is one of these fanatics you will have to remove the horse from the pasture which contains the forbidden nut.
The signs of acorn poisoning can be: loss of appetite, excessive salivation, blood in the urine or manure, colic-like pain, slow or irregular heart-rate, elevated temperature, pale mucous membranes, watery eyes and a depressed attitude. In the early stages manure is hard and dark in color; the horse may be constipated. Often, in the later stage, the manure changes to diarrhea. Mouth ulcers may form; salvia may escape from the nose. In extreme cases liver and kidney failure ensues and other organs begin to hemorrhage. Some poisoned horses may founder.
Horses that are extremely sensitive to tannin or have eaten large quantities of oak leaves, bark or acorns may die.
If your horse develops acorn poisoning there is no antidote. The common treatment is supportive care. The affected horse must be removed from the source of the poisoning. Your veterinarian will probably give intravenous fluids to help flush out the toxins. Mineral oil and charcoal may be given to help rid the digestive system of the tannin. Hay and water is made available, which also helps dilute the poisonous material in the digestive system. Your veterinarian may also give pain killers to help make your horse more comfortable.
The best thing for the health of your horses and trees is to protect them from each other. Horses are hard on trees. They disturb the root system, chew the bark when bored and rub the branches. Forests or woods do not make good pasture. Fence off any trees. If the trees are providing shelter or shade erect a horse-safe structure, such as a three-sided loafing shed.
There is nothing more beautiful than a majestic oak tree and a horse - they just shouldn't be in the same picture.
Weight Gain For Horses
If a horse is under-weight, it's hard to get him fat.
Whoa! It's easy; just feed him more, you say.
Well, it's not that simple
Before we start thinking about increasing feeds and making changes we need to make sure the horse is truly underweight. We are so accustomed to seeing "well-rounded" horses when we see a fit horse we tend to think he is underweight.
Dr. Don Henneke developed the industry standard for determining the condition of a horse in regard to body fat. The body condition score (BCS) rates horses on a scale of 1-9. One is a walking skeleton and nine is obese.
The desired score for most horses would be 5 - Moderate: The back is flat with no crease or ridge. Ribs are not visible, but can be felt with very slight pressure. Fat around the tail head feels somewhat spongy. Fat along the withers and over the top of the back vertebrae make them somewhat rounded. The shoulders and neck blend smoothly into the body. For more information about the body condition score chart visit www.thewayofhorses.com
A horse that is severely underweight cannot recover from disease or illness quickly, is apt to become sick, will have poor quality hooves, will not be able to maintain body heat in cold weather, will not be able to perform or recover from exertion and will not thrive.
The first steps to take in helping the underweight horse is determine why he is thin. There could be one or several reasons.
1. Have a veterinarian visit to rule out illness. A latent infection may be present.
2. Have the vet or an equine dentist check the teeth. Malocclusion (teeth do not meet properly), high points, missing teeth, infection, sores and other problems may be causing chewing problems or causing the horse not to eat.
3. Have a good de-worming program in place. Conduct a fecal exam several times a year to determine worm types and load.
4. Ask your veterinarian about the possibilities of ulcers. He may recommend scoping the horse to detect ulcers. You may decide to try the ulcer medications without a scope and see if they help.
5. Alleviate stress.
6. Is he getting enough to eat and is it of good quality? The high price of hay, cheap commercial feeds, cutting back to save money and the shortage of good pasture for grazing are the most likely reasons for a thin horse. If this is the reason the horse is thin - it's time to sell the horse.
7. The horse may be a senior horse and can't utilize the nutrients available in feeds any longer.
Once the cause of the thinness is determined how to fix it can be addressed.
Your veterinarian can help you with disease, dental problems, deworming or ulcers. Alleviating the stress, providing better quality feed and more of it, better management and commitment to the care of the senior horse is up to you.
ALLEVIATING STRESS
You must alleviate as much stress as possible when dealing with a nervous horse. These horses may have high metabolisms and burn calories easily. Stall walking and weaving is not going to help maintain or gain weight.
The nervous horse may calm down if another animal is nearby. If your horse is alone try getting a goat or pony for companionship.
Providing a stall with plenty of windows, a Dutch door or stall guard so the horse can look out may help calm a nervous horse. Try hanging hay net filled with hay outside the door so he can munch on hay while watching the activity around the barn. Grabbing a mouth full of hay and running to look out the door can burn calories. Continue to provide hay on the floor in the stall so he can also eat in the natural position with his head down.
More turn-out time with plenty of forage may also help the nervous horse. If the lot does not have adequate forage you can scatter hay to simulate grazing.
If your horse does have ulcers alleviating the stress will help speed the healing process.
A major stress factor is the feeding schedule. A horse is a creature of habit. Feed at the same time every day. Small, frequent meals are best and they need to be on time. Do not feed one big meal and expect it to last 24 hours or more. Do not feed twice a day with a lapse of more than 12 hours between meals. The best schedule is three or more times within a 24 hour period at the same time each day or night. For example: 6 A.M., 1 P.M. and 8 PM, with the evening meal providing enough hay to last until the next morning.
MORE FEED AND BETTER QUALITY
Most nutrition articles about feeding horses recommend approximately two (2) percent of their body weight in forage per day. This would mean a 1,000-pound horse would need about 20 pounds a day.
This amount is not carved in stone. There are other factors to be considered. What is the quality of the forage? How much of it is edible? How many calories is the forage providing? How many calories per day does the horse require? How digestible is the hay?
Hay that is mature, full of weeds, stored improperly, soiled by other animals, made with inferior grass types or not harvested from well-maintained fields will not provide enough nutrients. If the hay does contain adequate nutrients but the horse does not like the taste of it, then it's no good, too.
It is possible the nervous horse with the high metabolism may eat as much as four or five percent of his body weight in forage per day. Even if hay is provided 24-hours per day if it is not of good quality it will not provide enough calories.
If the underweight horse is on pasture the same problems must be addressed. Is the horse expected to thrive on weeds? A good pasture management program must be implemented which includes rotating pastures. Contact your local cooperative extension office for assistance. http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/index.html In the meantime provide good quality hay in addition to the pasture.
The bottom line is the thin horse (and all horses) should have forage available 24-hours per day.
Once the forage part of the diet has been addressed a balanced commercial diet that compliments the forage should be added.
The key to this is read the feed tag! The mix you choose should be designed for your horse based on age, activity level and forage type. You do not want a feed made for adult horses at maintenance activity level when your horse is a high-performance nervous show horse. You'll end up feeding more, spending more money (think supplements), being frustrated and not providing the needed nutrition for your horse.
Commercial mixes designed for high performance horses and horses that need more calories will contain more fat and probably beet pulp. The fat sources will be vegetable oil, flaxseed and rice bran. These products will not be cheap, but they will be balanced.
Purchasing cheap feed and then adding supplements to try to make it better will only get your mineral ratios unbalanced, create more work for you and put your horse at risk. Unless you are an equine nutritionist leave the mixing to the scientists. Take my word for it - the math calculations are not fun.
If you still decide to add supplements do lots of research. Some key points are: rice bran has an inverted calcium to phosphorus ratio - it needs to be balanced. Horses cannot digest whole flax - it needs to be ground. High fat products turn rancid quickly - they need to be stabilized or purchased fresh frequently. Oil purchased at the grocery store lacks beneficial fatty acids.
Adding a small amount of beet pulp to the diet will not hurt anything. Many horses that are picky will eat with gusto if some moist beet pulp is added to their grain.
Do not feed more than one-half percent of the body weight in grain at one feeding. So a horse that weighs 1,000 pounds should not get more than 5 pounds at a time. (1,000 pounds times 0.005 equals 5 pounds). A horse that weighs 800 pounds would not get more than 4 pounds (800 times 0.005).
THE SENIOR HORSE
The senior horse will have trouble utilizing nutrients. Tooth problems and loosing the ability to extract nutrients from feeds will cause weight loss.
Addressing all management issues can help ensure good quality of life for many years.
Do not neglect the geriatric horse - recovery from sickness, injury or malnutrition can be impossible.
Caring for horses can be expensive and time consuming. Caring for a horse that has issues is worse - if you can't make the commitment, do not get a horse�.they all end up with issues eventually.
THE TRUTH ABOUT PET FOOD
For the most part, your pet eats the same food every day. The brand you feed is your pet’s main source of nutrition, which is vital to a long and healthy life. That’s why it’s important to look past attractive labels and clever marketing ploys when deciding which food to provide your precious pet.
Although you may think that pet food manufacturers have your pet’s best interest at mind, this is not always the case. Current pet food regulations allow manufacturers to use ingredients that you would never knowingly feed your pet. Many foods include by-products like feet, bones, and intestines, chemical preservatives like BHA and BHT, and grains like corn, wheat gluten and soy, which are often difficult to digest. These ingredients can put unnecessary stress on your pet’s system and can lead to diminished overall health.
At HealthPetNet, every food, baked treat and supplement is veterinarian formulated to help your pet achieve optimum health. Our foods and baked treats are nutrient dense and contain only the freshest, human-quality ingredients. Our diets use high-quality meat proteins, rather than by-products, corn, wheat, gluten, or soy. You can be confident you are providing your pet with the healthiest possible diet because our products are free from chemical preservatives, sugars, artificial flavors and colors.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
How I Saved My Dog Daniel
I never had a pet when I was a kid, because my parents couldn't afford to have one. If taken care of the properly, a pet can cost money. So, I never was a pet lover, until Daniel came into my life. A small dog, Daniel weighed about 10-15 pounds soaking wet. But, that little mutt had such a personality, that he would make people laugh wherever I took him. We bonded right away, and he went everywhere with me. The grocery store, the post office, and whenever I went jogging, he came along and he loved it.
One day, I was working on the computer, and out of the corner of my eye, I was watching a television talk show in the middle of the afternoon. The show was about a variety of things, but what caught my attention was the part where the host and the guest began talking about something called the Heimlic maneuver, which is described as the following:
"An emergency technique used to eject an object, such as food from the trachea of a choking person. The technique employees a firm upward thrust just below the rib cage to force air from the lungs."
I had heard about this technique before, but I had never used it, and I had never seen it used by anyone else, either. But, what was interesting on the show, is that they were talking about how this technique, could not only be used on humans, but how it could be used on pets, too. This caught my interest and I stopped working on the computer and watched and listened to what was being said, etc.
I was hoping I would never have to use this technique on Daniel, but you never know. Dogs can be so unpredictable in their behavior. My further description of the technique, is to grab a person from the backside in a bear hug and apply pressure to the stomach area, to force the object out, and force air in. (That's as good as I can describe it) I didn't know the technique could apply to pets as well, so I learned something new. I made a few notes during the program that could come in handy in the future.
When it came to walking and jogging, I had been doing it for over twenty years, about 15 miles a week. I liked to take Daniel with me, and he loved to get out in the open spaces and run! I would jog in this huge open field, and take Daniel off the leash and give him a little freedom. But, I would keep an eye on him. He took off after a rabbit once, crossed the highway and almost got run over by a car! Dogs don't know anything about looking both ways when they cross the street!
On this day, it was a hot August afternoon, as the sun was going down. Daniel and I were out doing a little walking and jogging. As I said earlier, I don't have a lot of experience with dogs, but it seems to me that they're always hungry, and always looking for something to eat. Even if they have just finished eating, they are still looking in the bushes for something to eat, and if they find it...they'll eat it! There a lot of dangerous things out there waiting for a dog to eat, like antifreeze, which will kill a pet or old sharp bones from a dead bird that they may swallow, etc.
Instead of naming my dog Daniel, I should have named him "Hoover," because he was always sucking up everything is sight, and I had to watch him like a little baby. Anyway, we were out in the field walking and just cooling off after jogging, and Daniel was about 20 feet behind. I would check up on him all the time, to see if he was doing okay. AND, THEN IT HAPPENED...
I looked back to check on Daniel, and he had something in his mouth. It looked like an old piece of hamburger meat. I immediately screamed at him to DROP IT! DANIEL DROP IT, I yelled at him! But, instead of dropping the object, HE SWALLOWED IT! As I screamed at him, I raced up to him! In an instant, he was upside down, and choking and suffocating! His little legs were were going a mile a minute as he struggled to get air!
As I saw this happen, I came apart, but there was no time to come apart! There were only seconds to act! Daniel was going to die in seconds if I didn't do something FAST! But, what could I do out in the middle of nowhere! There was no help were we were! It was PANIC TIME, and very quickly, I remembered the television show about the Heimlic maneuver! But, how was I going to give it to Daniel...he was so small? I couldn't get him in a bear hug...that was silly! I should have thought of this before...but, I didn't!
Tears and a gallon of sweat were pouring down my face and getting in my eyes! Seconds were ticking off, and I was terrified that Daniel was going to die in my arms! All I could do is a version of the Heimlic maneuver! So, I got Daniel by the fur on the back of the neck, stood him up, and punched Daniel in the stomach between the ribs! NOTHING HAPPENED...I PANICKED! Thinking I didn't hit him hard enough, I was going to have to hit him harder even if I hurt him! Better to have a live dog with a few broken ribs, than a dead dog!
I have never been so frightened in my life, as Daniel was dying and seconds were ticking away! This was a matter of life and death! Again, I stood him straight up, and punched him in the stomach...HARD this time, and the object came shooting out of his mouth and landed about six feet away! Daniel could breath now! Daniel would be okay!
I laid Daniel on the ground and shielded him from the sun, and let him stay there a while. With tears running down my face and drowning in sweat, I must have sweat 30 gallons in 30 seconds! I was soaking wet! I have never had to act so fast as I had to act that day! I sat on the ground, and tried to pull myself together. Daniel lay on the ground next to me, and looked at me with those glassy big brown eyes, as if the say, "thank you." I could not express the relief I felt when I knew Daniel would be okay! Both of us were exhausted!
I didn't want Daniel out in the heat of the day too long, so it was time to go back to the car. I got him up on his feet, and he seemed okay, and I put him over my shoulder, where he liked to ride, and we headed for the car. I would have to say that those were the most terrifying seconds of my life, but it all had a happy ending after all.
* * *
A few days later, I told one of my neighbors about the incident with Daniel, because, he too, owned a dog, and the story about Daniel was of interest to him. Amazingly, an incident to his dog happened to him a couple of weeks later. He told how he saved his dog, too.
The neighbors dog must have eaten something that didn't agree with him, and the dog got violently sick! The dog was laying on its side and throwing up and was having trouble breathing! The neighbor remembered the story I told him about Daniel, so he punched the dog in the stomach, between the ribs and the dog threw up more and more! But, the dog was still having trouble breathing and choking on his own vomit, so the neighbor punched the dog in the stomach a second time! Again, more vomit came out, and now the dog could breath easier! The dogs life was saved, and it was another happy ending!
All of us know what it feels like to get hit in the stomach and get the wind knocked out of us! It's a terrible feeling for sure! But, when something awful happens to a human or a pet like this, you have to act fast! It's a matter of life and death! So, I hope these two stories help you in saving the life of a human or a pet if you have to.
One day, I was working on the computer, and out of the corner of my eye, I was watching a television talk show in the middle of the afternoon. The show was about a variety of things, but what caught my attention was the part where the host and the guest began talking about something called the Heimlic maneuver, which is described as the following:
"An emergency technique used to eject an object, such as food from the trachea of a choking person. The technique employees a firm upward thrust just below the rib cage to force air from the lungs."
I had heard about this technique before, but I had never used it, and I had never seen it used by anyone else, either. But, what was interesting on the show, is that they were talking about how this technique, could not only be used on humans, but how it could be used on pets, too. This caught my interest and I stopped working on the computer and watched and listened to what was being said, etc.
I was hoping I would never have to use this technique on Daniel, but you never know. Dogs can be so unpredictable in their behavior. My further description of the technique, is to grab a person from the backside in a bear hug and apply pressure to the stomach area, to force the object out, and force air in. (That's as good as I can describe it) I didn't know the technique could apply to pets as well, so I learned something new. I made a few notes during the program that could come in handy in the future.
When it came to walking and jogging, I had been doing it for over twenty years, about 15 miles a week. I liked to take Daniel with me, and he loved to get out in the open spaces and run! I would jog in this huge open field, and take Daniel off the leash and give him a little freedom. But, I would keep an eye on him. He took off after a rabbit once, crossed the highway and almost got run over by a car! Dogs don't know anything about looking both ways when they cross the street!
On this day, it was a hot August afternoon, as the sun was going down. Daniel and I were out doing a little walking and jogging. As I said earlier, I don't have a lot of experience with dogs, but it seems to me that they're always hungry, and always looking for something to eat. Even if they have just finished eating, they are still looking in the bushes for something to eat, and if they find it...they'll eat it! There a lot of dangerous things out there waiting for a dog to eat, like antifreeze, which will kill a pet or old sharp bones from a dead bird that they may swallow, etc.
Instead of naming my dog Daniel, I should have named him "Hoover," because he was always sucking up everything is sight, and I had to watch him like a little baby. Anyway, we were out in the field walking and just cooling off after jogging, and Daniel was about 20 feet behind. I would check up on him all the time, to see if he was doing okay. AND, THEN IT HAPPENED...
I looked back to check on Daniel, and he had something in his mouth. It looked like an old piece of hamburger meat. I immediately screamed at him to DROP IT! DANIEL DROP IT, I yelled at him! But, instead of dropping the object, HE SWALLOWED IT! As I screamed at him, I raced up to him! In an instant, he was upside down, and choking and suffocating! His little legs were were going a mile a minute as he struggled to get air!
As I saw this happen, I came apart, but there was no time to come apart! There were only seconds to act! Daniel was going to die in seconds if I didn't do something FAST! But, what could I do out in the middle of nowhere! There was no help were we were! It was PANIC TIME, and very quickly, I remembered the television show about the Heimlic maneuver! But, how was I going to give it to Daniel...he was so small? I couldn't get him in a bear hug...that was silly! I should have thought of this before...but, I didn't!
Tears and a gallon of sweat were pouring down my face and getting in my eyes! Seconds were ticking off, and I was terrified that Daniel was going to die in my arms! All I could do is a version of the Heimlic maneuver! So, I got Daniel by the fur on the back of the neck, stood him up, and punched Daniel in the stomach between the ribs! NOTHING HAPPENED...I PANICKED! Thinking I didn't hit him hard enough, I was going to have to hit him harder even if I hurt him! Better to have a live dog with a few broken ribs, than a dead dog!
I have never been so frightened in my life, as Daniel was dying and seconds were ticking away! This was a matter of life and death! Again, I stood him straight up, and punched him in the stomach...HARD this time, and the object came shooting out of his mouth and landed about six feet away! Daniel could breath now! Daniel would be okay!
I laid Daniel on the ground and shielded him from the sun, and let him stay there a while. With tears running down my face and drowning in sweat, I must have sweat 30 gallons in 30 seconds! I was soaking wet! I have never had to act so fast as I had to act that day! I sat on the ground, and tried to pull myself together. Daniel lay on the ground next to me, and looked at me with those glassy big brown eyes, as if the say, "thank you." I could not express the relief I felt when I knew Daniel would be okay! Both of us were exhausted!
I didn't want Daniel out in the heat of the day too long, so it was time to go back to the car. I got him up on his feet, and he seemed okay, and I put him over my shoulder, where he liked to ride, and we headed for the car. I would have to say that those were the most terrifying seconds of my life, but it all had a happy ending after all.
* * *
A few days later, I told one of my neighbors about the incident with Daniel, because, he too, owned a dog, and the story about Daniel was of interest to him. Amazingly, an incident to his dog happened to him a couple of weeks later. He told how he saved his dog, too.
The neighbors dog must have eaten something that didn't agree with him, and the dog got violently sick! The dog was laying on its side and throwing up and was having trouble breathing! The neighbor remembered the story I told him about Daniel, so he punched the dog in the stomach, between the ribs and the dog threw up more and more! But, the dog was still having trouble breathing and choking on his own vomit, so the neighbor punched the dog in the stomach a second time! Again, more vomit came out, and now the dog could breath easier! The dogs life was saved, and it was another happy ending!
All of us know what it feels like to get hit in the stomach and get the wind knocked out of us! It's a terrible feeling for sure! But, when something awful happens to a human or a pet like this, you have to act fast! It's a matter of life and death! So, I hope these two stories help you in saving the life of a human or a pet if you have to.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Jewelry for Dog Lovers, Don't Get Bitten
There is no doubt about it; dog lovers do love their dogs. After all they are man's best friend. Last year alone, in 2008, dog owners spent a whopping 85 billion dollars on their furry little friends. Many of these folks love to show off their love for the breed of their choice. Some of the most requested trinkets for dog lovers are earrings. These are usually miniature dogs made of some type of material hanging from shepherds hook earrings. Another popular item is a single dog hanging from a chain in the form of a necklace. Then, for the younger set, a charm bracelet, your favorite breed in the form of a charm to be added to the charm bracelet.
There are many companies out in the marketplace that make this type of jewelry that resembles the various breeds of dogs. There are some in 14k or 18k gold, some in stainless steel, some in sterling silver, and some in a variety of carved gemstones. These products are sold as dog earrings, dog necklaces, and even charms for dog charm bracelets. The biggest problem with most of these products is that they lack the likeness of the dog they attempt to portray. They look like a solid mass of some type of metal or gemstone. The only one who knows what it is is the person wearing it, and that is only because they know what it is supposed to be. To most, it resembles just a clump of metal.
The dog jewelry that is widely available on the web today is probably the best selection of its kind available anywhere. With prices that range from a few dollars up to several hundred dollars, how does one decide on the best value, quality, and likeness? Certainly budget limitations come into play as well. What about workmanship? It can be confusing to say the least and difficult to evaluate a product online. Pictures of the product are important but could be misleading in one way or another.
Warranties and company guarantees are very helpful indicators of the quality of the products. Companies that offer complete satisfaction or a full refund are usually a pretty good bet. This indicates the confidence of a company in the product that they sell. The customer's satisfaction should be the company's primary objective. If the company does not have a complete satisfaction warranty, purchasing from them is probably a mistake. When you decide to buy dog jewelry, don't get bitten, buy from someone who has a no questions asked return policy.
There are many companies out in the marketplace that make this type of jewelry that resembles the various breeds of dogs. There are some in 14k or 18k gold, some in stainless steel, some in sterling silver, and some in a variety of carved gemstones. These products are sold as dog earrings, dog necklaces, and even charms for dog charm bracelets. The biggest problem with most of these products is that they lack the likeness of the dog they attempt to portray. They look like a solid mass of some type of metal or gemstone. The only one who knows what it is is the person wearing it, and that is only because they know what it is supposed to be. To most, it resembles just a clump of metal.
The dog jewelry that is widely available on the web today is probably the best selection of its kind available anywhere. With prices that range from a few dollars up to several hundred dollars, how does one decide on the best value, quality, and likeness? Certainly budget limitations come into play as well. What about workmanship? It can be confusing to say the least and difficult to evaluate a product online. Pictures of the product are important but could be misleading in one way or another.
Warranties and company guarantees are very helpful indicators of the quality of the products. Companies that offer complete satisfaction or a full refund are usually a pretty good bet. This indicates the confidence of a company in the product that they sell. The customer's satisfaction should be the company's primary objective. If the company does not have a complete satisfaction warranty, purchasing from them is probably a mistake. When you decide to buy dog jewelry, don't get bitten, buy from someone who has a no questions asked return policy.
Cat Litter Box Tips-6
If your cat is not using the litter box consistently or even at all, here are 6 things to try that could make a huge difference to your cat and you.
1. Keep it Clean--Your cat's nose is much more sensitive than human noses. So keeping the litter box clean and inviting is one of the easiest ways you can entice your cat to use the litter box rather than your carpet or rugs.
2. Fine Tune the Location--Cats need their privacy too. Placing the litter box in a place that is easily accessible to your cat, but is out of the main traffic pattern through your home will make a big difference.
You probably don't necessarily want to watch your cat defecate, and it would probably enjoy privacy as well. The laundry room, bath room or hallways are all great picks. Be sure to put plenty of space between the food and litter box.
3. Check on Health--Sometimes a cat who suddenly develops improper elimination issues has a urinary tract infection or some other health problem that presents this way. Seek immediate advice from your vet.
4. If the problem stems from a physical problem, quick diagnosis and treatment can avoid having this behavior turn into a habit.
5. Maintain a Routine in the Midst of Change--Cats are creatures of habit, and a disruption to their schedule can wreak havoc with their elimination habits. A new baby, another pet, a move to a new home, or even a change in work hours of the primary care giver can all cause your cat to be stressed.
Stress often translates into inappropriate elimination. Reduce your cat's stress by gently guiding it to the litter box when it makes a mistake. Harsh treatment, perish the thought, only increases stress and will cause even more problems.
Pick a spot for the box that is always accessible and does not depend on your opening a door for your cat to use it, and leave it in the same place so your cat always knows where to find it.
6. Try a Different Type of Litter--Cats do have a reputation for being finicky, and maybe it just doesn't like your pick of litter. Try changing from one type to another by slowing adding more of the new as you decrease the old. Scents can be off-putting, so try a brand without an odor.
7. Don't Make Them Share--If you have more than one cat, provide a box for each one. Even though we think nothing of sharing a bathroom, cats don't like it, and you will probably have more success if each has a litter box of its own.
1. Keep it Clean--Your cat's nose is much more sensitive than human noses. So keeping the litter box clean and inviting is one of the easiest ways you can entice your cat to use the litter box rather than your carpet or rugs.
2. Fine Tune the Location--Cats need their privacy too. Placing the litter box in a place that is easily accessible to your cat, but is out of the main traffic pattern through your home will make a big difference.
You probably don't necessarily want to watch your cat defecate, and it would probably enjoy privacy as well. The laundry room, bath room or hallways are all great picks. Be sure to put plenty of space between the food and litter box.
3. Check on Health--Sometimes a cat who suddenly develops improper elimination issues has a urinary tract infection or some other health problem that presents this way. Seek immediate advice from your vet.
4. If the problem stems from a physical problem, quick diagnosis and treatment can avoid having this behavior turn into a habit.
5. Maintain a Routine in the Midst of Change--Cats are creatures of habit, and a disruption to their schedule can wreak havoc with their elimination habits. A new baby, another pet, a move to a new home, or even a change in work hours of the primary care giver can all cause your cat to be stressed.
Stress often translates into inappropriate elimination. Reduce your cat's stress by gently guiding it to the litter box when it makes a mistake. Harsh treatment, perish the thought, only increases stress and will cause even more problems.
Pick a spot for the box that is always accessible and does not depend on your opening a door for your cat to use it, and leave it in the same place so your cat always knows where to find it.
6. Try a Different Type of Litter--Cats do have a reputation for being finicky, and maybe it just doesn't like your pick of litter. Try changing from one type to another by slowing adding more of the new as you decrease the old. Scents can be off-putting, so try a brand without an odor.
7. Don't Make Them Share--If you have more than one cat, provide a box for each one. Even though we think nothing of sharing a bathroom, cats don't like it, and you will probably have more success if each has a litter box of its own.
Dog Aggression and Dog Biting
Most dog owners will be able to tell you that dealing with an aggressive dog that bites is not an easy task. Having a cruel dog can be a never ending nightmare. You will probably have the feeling that you are continually waiting for something to go wrong. This can be you dog breaking loose and biting someone, or just being aggressive toward your family members. This article will give you some information on how to deal with dog biting.
Luckily you do not have to be fearful all the time and expect your canine friend to bite people that can possibly result in lawsuits. With some tolerance from your side and a lot of training, you will be able to turn your dog into a dog that should ultimately be your best friend.
You will possibly want to know what the most efficient ways is to control dog aggression and dog biting from your dog. To start with, it is vital for you to realize that angry dog conduct cannot be narrowed down to specific dog breeds. Although pit bulls frequently get some very negative comments, there can also be very mean dogs in the some of the kind and calmer breeds. Examples of these dogs are Labradors or Collies. With the inappropriate handling or abandonment from humans, even the sweetest dogs with the best natures can turn into a very aggressive dog. Similar to people, you will also get out with dogs that what you put in. You should therefore make sure that you at all times treat your dog with love and respect, regardless of the breed.
Should your dog be a very nervous dog, it is especially important that you watch them closely, especially when they are in the vicinity of children. Dogs usually have scraps in order to establish their dominance. They can therefore easily see the behavior of your child as being a challenge or a threat. You should try and teach your children to keep calm around your canine friend. In addition, you should also make your child aware that playing games such as tug-of-war can result in your puppy being aggressive or biting.
It is also important that you should never take hold of your dog by its paws or tail, especially the back ones. Since a dog cannot observe what is going behind, their natural response is to protect themselves when in such a position.
Dog aggression and dog biting can be set off by keeping up direct eye contact, given that dogs will see this as a test to their supremacy. Common sense also states that you never make use of an attack command with your dog except if the situation actually calls for it.
By taking a little bit of extra care, you can prevent a calm dog from becoming mean or from infuriating a dog that has an inclination to act aggressively.
Luckily you do not have to be fearful all the time and expect your canine friend to bite people that can possibly result in lawsuits. With some tolerance from your side and a lot of training, you will be able to turn your dog into a dog that should ultimately be your best friend.
You will possibly want to know what the most efficient ways is to control dog aggression and dog biting from your dog. To start with, it is vital for you to realize that angry dog conduct cannot be narrowed down to specific dog breeds. Although pit bulls frequently get some very negative comments, there can also be very mean dogs in the some of the kind and calmer breeds. Examples of these dogs are Labradors or Collies. With the inappropriate handling or abandonment from humans, even the sweetest dogs with the best natures can turn into a very aggressive dog. Similar to people, you will also get out with dogs that what you put in. You should therefore make sure that you at all times treat your dog with love and respect, regardless of the breed.
Should your dog be a very nervous dog, it is especially important that you watch them closely, especially when they are in the vicinity of children. Dogs usually have scraps in order to establish their dominance. They can therefore easily see the behavior of your child as being a challenge or a threat. You should try and teach your children to keep calm around your canine friend. In addition, you should also make your child aware that playing games such as tug-of-war can result in your puppy being aggressive or biting.
It is also important that you should never take hold of your dog by its paws or tail, especially the back ones. Since a dog cannot observe what is going behind, their natural response is to protect themselves when in such a position.
Dog aggression and dog biting can be set off by keeping up direct eye contact, given that dogs will see this as a test to their supremacy. Common sense also states that you never make use of an attack command with your dog except if the situation actually calls for it.
By taking a little bit of extra care, you can prevent a calm dog from becoming mean or from infuriating a dog that has an inclination to act aggressively.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Dog beds
Dog beds come in all shapes, sizes and materials, so how do you pick the perfect bed? Of course, the bed should be the right size for your dog - big enough so he can stretch out and not hang over the sides but not too big that he feels lost in it. Good dog beds will also provide comfort, be easy to clean and resist dirt and moisture.
Pillow Beds
These beds come in many sizes shapes and colors and are like a giant pillow that your dog can sink in to. You can get them in faux suede or leather, nylon, denim, Berber and designer prints. If your pooch likes the outdoors, you can buy him a waterproof one! You can find any design or color to match your decor so why not buy multiple dog beds and have a soft spot for Fido in every room? Remember that the bed will need to be washed periodically so make sure to get one with a removable washable cover.
Nest Beds
Like the name, these beds create a nest around the dog. Made from stiff foam, they have sides that stick up to give your dog a secure feeling. Like the pillow bed, they come in all colors and sizes and usually have removable washable covers.
Orthopedic and Heated Dog Beds
If your dog is older or has joint problems (or maybe you just like to spoil him with creature comforts?), he may find comfort from an orthopedic dog bed. These beds are made from polyfoam which provides support for your dog. You can even buy a model that is sort of like a hammock and is designed to keep your dog off the cold floor, or one with a built in pillow! If your dog needs some extra heat, you can add a pet bed warmer that plugs in, or a heat pad that you warm in the microwave - it stays heated for 12 hours and requires no electricity thus eliminating potentially dangerous electrical cords. If it is the opposite you need, try the canine cooler thermoregulating dog bed which provides cold dry therapy for your dog.
Pillow Beds
These beds come in many sizes shapes and colors and are like a giant pillow that your dog can sink in to. You can get them in faux suede or leather, nylon, denim, Berber and designer prints. If your pooch likes the outdoors, you can buy him a waterproof one! You can find any design or color to match your decor so why not buy multiple dog beds and have a soft spot for Fido in every room? Remember that the bed will need to be washed periodically so make sure to get one with a removable washable cover.
Nest Beds
Like the name, these beds create a nest around the dog. Made from stiff foam, they have sides that stick up to give your dog a secure feeling. Like the pillow bed, they come in all colors and sizes and usually have removable washable covers.
Orthopedic and Heated Dog Beds
If your dog is older or has joint problems (or maybe you just like to spoil him with creature comforts?), he may find comfort from an orthopedic dog bed. These beds are made from polyfoam which provides support for your dog. You can even buy a model that is sort of like a hammock and is designed to keep your dog off the cold floor, or one with a built in pillow! If your dog needs some extra heat, you can add a pet bed warmer that plugs in, or a heat pad that you warm in the microwave - it stays heated for 12 hours and requires no electricity thus eliminating potentially dangerous electrical cords. If it is the opposite you need, try the canine cooler thermoregulating dog bed which provides cold dry therapy for your dog.
Small dog sweaters
Small dog sweaters come in every variety from plain sweaters to wacky costumes.
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While you may dress your dog up because it makes him look cute, there may be a practical reason to put your pooch in a sweater.
Small dogs in particular may have a real need for added protection, especially if you live in a cold climate and your dog spends a lot of time inside. Adjusting to the outdoor temperature may be hard on him so he may welcome putting on his small dog sweaters! I live in New Hampshire and in the coldest parts of winter my dog gets cold and starts to shiver inside - imagine how she would feel if I took her outside with no coat or sweater!
When selecting small dog sweaters, be sure to get one that fits properly - not too loose or too tight. This will make it easier for your dog to accept wearing one. Always check that there are no loose strings or things hanging which your dog could get caught in or chew off. When getting the dog used to wearing the sweater, try putting it on for a few minutes and then gradually lengthening the time so your dog is used to wearing it.
You can buy dog sweaters in all kinds of patterns and styles from classic plaid to faux fur to pink hearts, to hot pink with feathers and rhinestones - you can get about anything that suits the taste of you and your dog! Whether your dog likes Paris chic, or classic plaid - patriotic stars and stripes or ruby stripes - zig zag or argyle, you'll be able to find small dog sweaters to fit his or her needs and keep him comfy!
google_protectAndRun("render_ads.js::google_render_ad", google_handleError, google_render_ad);
While you may dress your dog up because it makes him look cute, there may be a practical reason to put your pooch in a sweater.
Small dogs in particular may have a real need for added protection, especially if you live in a cold climate and your dog spends a lot of time inside. Adjusting to the outdoor temperature may be hard on him so he may welcome putting on his small dog sweaters! I live in New Hampshire and in the coldest parts of winter my dog gets cold and starts to shiver inside - imagine how she would feel if I took her outside with no coat or sweater!
When selecting small dog sweaters, be sure to get one that fits properly - not too loose or too tight. This will make it easier for your dog to accept wearing one. Always check that there are no loose strings or things hanging which your dog could get caught in or chew off. When getting the dog used to wearing the sweater, try putting it on for a few minutes and then gradually lengthening the time so your dog is used to wearing it.
You can buy dog sweaters in all kinds of patterns and styles from classic plaid to faux fur to pink hearts, to hot pink with feathers and rhinestones - you can get about anything that suits the taste of you and your dog! Whether your dog likes Paris chic, or classic plaid - patriotic stars and stripes or ruby stripes - zig zag or argyle, you'll be able to find small dog sweaters to fit his or her needs and keep him comfy!
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Pet Evacuation Plan
When the earth shakes, the wind blows or the home is filled with the smell of smoke, most people automatically shift into the self-preservation mode and scramble to preserve their lives and the lives of others in the family. Those who plan ahead and develop contingencies for such emergency situations generally fare better than those who do not. Professionals in the emergency disaster relief field promote emergency evacuation plans for people, because they work.
But what about an emergency plan for our pets? They are family members too. Shouldn’t our plans for emergency evacuation include them as well? Thousands of trusting, devoted pets are lost each year due to natural disasters such as hurricanes, floods and fires, simply because their people did not have an emergency plan that included them.
With proper planning, many losses and much heartache can be avoided. Having an emergency evacuation plan in place that includes the family pet does not require a lot of effort. It is a task that is very easy to accomplish. The following information and tips are provided to help you develop such a plan.
• Never leave your pet behind unless circumstances absolutely prevent you from taking them. For instance, if the house is crumbling beneath your feet during an earthquake and you can’t find the cat, you probably should get yourself and your family to safety first and then, if safe, return to find the cat later. The chances are that a cat or dog will manage to exit the house on their own accord in such a situation, because they don’t want to be there either.
In a situation where there is time to plan your evacuation however, such as an approaching fire-line or hurricane, pets should not be left behind. Their lives are as vulnerable to these threats as humans and they need to be protected. Even if they manage to survive, the chance of them running off and not being found is extremely high. If they are found, it will probably be animal control and in the aftermath of a natural disaster, efforts for reuniting pets with their people are not high on the agenda.
• Do not book your pet into a local kennel or temporary shelter unless local authorities determine the shelter will withstand the impending danger. If the facility is in the path of destruction, boarding your pet there will not remove the danger to them. You will probably find that local shelters and kennels will be closed and not accepting business anyway. Additionally, kennels in neighboring towns that are not in harm’s way will probably run out of vacancies very quickly.
The best idea is to check with your local shelter or chapter of the SPCA long before the need arises. They may already have all the information you need.
In the absence of having such information, it is suggested that you keep your pet(s) with you. Recently there has been a awakening in the motel/hotel industry to the importance of pets to potential customers and more and more establishments are making provisions for animals. It should be relatively easy to find a motel that will accept your pet for very little additional expense.
• Ensure that your pet’s vaccines are up to date and have that paperwork in a place where you can find it quickly if the need to evacuate arises. If your evacuation occurs during the time the disaster is taking place (i.e. the beginning of a hurricane, etc.) make sure your pet has a collar and that the required tags are attached. Without meaning any disrespect, it might be a good time to treat your pet like a piece of luggage by adding an information tag to the collar with your contact information and an alternate family member’s (outside the endangered zone) contact information. In the event you are separated from your pet, this could be the one factor that ensures you are reunited.
• Some organizations give advice for situations where you have no choice but to leave your pet(s) at home. Except in those where circumstances prevent you from locating your pet and you must leave immediately (i.e. flood waters rising, etc.) such advice does not resonate with this writer. As a member of the family, they have an expectation of being important too. They depend upon you and you can’t let them down.
Just a little effort today may save you a lot of heartache tomorrow. Take the time and draft a plan for pet evacuation.
But what about an emergency plan for our pets? They are family members too. Shouldn’t our plans for emergency evacuation include them as well? Thousands of trusting, devoted pets are lost each year due to natural disasters such as hurricanes, floods and fires, simply because their people did not have an emergency plan that included them.
With proper planning, many losses and much heartache can be avoided. Having an emergency evacuation plan in place that includes the family pet does not require a lot of effort. It is a task that is very easy to accomplish. The following information and tips are provided to help you develop such a plan.
• Never leave your pet behind unless circumstances absolutely prevent you from taking them. For instance, if the house is crumbling beneath your feet during an earthquake and you can’t find the cat, you probably should get yourself and your family to safety first and then, if safe, return to find the cat later. The chances are that a cat or dog will manage to exit the house on their own accord in such a situation, because they don’t want to be there either.
In a situation where there is time to plan your evacuation however, such as an approaching fire-line or hurricane, pets should not be left behind. Their lives are as vulnerable to these threats as humans and they need to be protected. Even if they manage to survive, the chance of them running off and not being found is extremely high. If they are found, it will probably be animal control and in the aftermath of a natural disaster, efforts for reuniting pets with their people are not high on the agenda.
• Do not book your pet into a local kennel or temporary shelter unless local authorities determine the shelter will withstand the impending danger. If the facility is in the path of destruction, boarding your pet there will not remove the danger to them. You will probably find that local shelters and kennels will be closed and not accepting business anyway. Additionally, kennels in neighboring towns that are not in harm’s way will probably run out of vacancies very quickly.
The best idea is to check with your local shelter or chapter of the SPCA long before the need arises. They may already have all the information you need.
In the absence of having such information, it is suggested that you keep your pet(s) with you. Recently there has been a awakening in the motel/hotel industry to the importance of pets to potential customers and more and more establishments are making provisions for animals. It should be relatively easy to find a motel that will accept your pet for very little additional expense.
• Ensure that your pet’s vaccines are up to date and have that paperwork in a place where you can find it quickly if the need to evacuate arises. If your evacuation occurs during the time the disaster is taking place (i.e. the beginning of a hurricane, etc.) make sure your pet has a collar and that the required tags are attached. Without meaning any disrespect, it might be a good time to treat your pet like a piece of luggage by adding an information tag to the collar with your contact information and an alternate family member’s (outside the endangered zone) contact information. In the event you are separated from your pet, this could be the one factor that ensures you are reunited.
• Some organizations give advice for situations where you have no choice but to leave your pet(s) at home. Except in those where circumstances prevent you from locating your pet and you must leave immediately (i.e. flood waters rising, etc.) such advice does not resonate with this writer. As a member of the family, they have an expectation of being important too. They depend upon you and you can’t let them down.
Just a little effort today may save you a lot of heartache tomorrow. Take the time and draft a plan for pet evacuation.
Health Insurance for Pets in Pennsylvania
Throughout history most of a veterinarian’s clientele was farm livestock (large animals). Dogs, cats and other household pets made up such a small amount of their daily business there was very little reason to study up on it. Even the beloved European veterinarian, James Herriott, counted on the Yorkshire farmers for a majority of his country clinics business. In 1884 that began to change when the University of Pennsylvania’s veterinary school opened the United States very first clinic specializing in the veterinary needs of dogs. In 2001 the United States of America had over 28,000 veterinarians who specialize in small animals.
It is fitting that Pennsylvania opened the very first vet clinic that specialized in the veterinary needs of dogs, the state has had a long running bond with the canine population, starting with the states founders, William Penn’s, Great Dane. A portrait of this Great Dane standing beside his master can be seen hanging in the governor’s reception room of the governor’s mansion in Harrisburg Pennsylvania. Pennsylvania considers the Great Dane the state dog. Owners of Great Dane’s appreciate the breed’s faithfulness, intelligence, beauty, courage, and tolerance. Great Danes stand approximately 30-34 inches tall and weigh anywhere from 120-200 pounds, people who have Great Danes believe that the larger the dog the better. Because of their large size Great Danes are not an exceptionally long lived dog; their bodies simply aren’t designed to last very long. Many Great Danes suffer from heart problems, bloat, twisted intestines, and tail injuries. Some Great Danes have been diagnosed with hip dysplasia. Great Dane owners are not advised to take their Great Danes jogging until the puppy is at least one year old. Dogs featured in ancient Greek art work bear a strong resemblance to today’s Great Dane. German hunters were especially impressed with the dog’s ability at hunting bears and wild boars and bred the best great Danes to the best Greyhounds which helped create a leaner more agile breed.
Dog owners in the state of Pennsylvania are more then eligible to purchase pet health insurance for their dogs from the American Kennel Club. The American Kennel club estimates that the average pet owner who purchases an essential pet health care insurance plan (the essential health insurance plan is the name of the AKC’s lowest health insurance policy) through them will only pay approximately sixty-eight cents per day. Pet owners who purchase pet health insurance through the American Kennel Club have four different types of health insurance plans to choose from. The American Kennel Club Insurance company is happy to include cats into its health care insurance program. The American Kennel club is so confident that pet owners will love the benefits of purchasing pet health care insurance through them that they proudly offer owners the opportunity to test drive their insurance policy free for sixty days. Pet owners who insure their pets with pet health care insurance offered by the American Kennel Club are allowed to decide if they would like to receive a monthly statement in the mail or if they would rather pay for the an entire years worth of insurance in one lump sum and then not have to worry about it for twelve months.
It is fitting that Pennsylvania opened the very first vet clinic that specialized in the veterinary needs of dogs, the state has had a long running bond with the canine population, starting with the states founders, William Penn’s, Great Dane. A portrait of this Great Dane standing beside his master can be seen hanging in the governor’s reception room of the governor’s mansion in Harrisburg Pennsylvania. Pennsylvania considers the Great Dane the state dog. Owners of Great Dane’s appreciate the breed’s faithfulness, intelligence, beauty, courage, and tolerance. Great Danes stand approximately 30-34 inches tall and weigh anywhere from 120-200 pounds, people who have Great Danes believe that the larger the dog the better. Because of their large size Great Danes are not an exceptionally long lived dog; their bodies simply aren’t designed to last very long. Many Great Danes suffer from heart problems, bloat, twisted intestines, and tail injuries. Some Great Danes have been diagnosed with hip dysplasia. Great Dane owners are not advised to take their Great Danes jogging until the puppy is at least one year old. Dogs featured in ancient Greek art work bear a strong resemblance to today’s Great Dane. German hunters were especially impressed with the dog’s ability at hunting bears and wild boars and bred the best great Danes to the best Greyhounds which helped create a leaner more agile breed.
Dog owners in the state of Pennsylvania are more then eligible to purchase pet health insurance for their dogs from the American Kennel Club. The American Kennel club estimates that the average pet owner who purchases an essential pet health care insurance plan (the essential health insurance plan is the name of the AKC’s lowest health insurance policy) through them will only pay approximately sixty-eight cents per day. Pet owners who purchase pet health insurance through the American Kennel Club have four different types of health insurance plans to choose from. The American Kennel Club Insurance company is happy to include cats into its health care insurance program. The American Kennel club is so confident that pet owners will love the benefits of purchasing pet health care insurance through them that they proudly offer owners the opportunity to test drive their insurance policy free for sixty days. Pet owners who insure their pets with pet health care insurance offered by the American Kennel Club are allowed to decide if they would like to receive a monthly statement in the mail or if they would rather pay for the an entire years worth of insurance in one lump sum and then not have to worry about it for twelve months.
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