Macaw Parrots as Pets

Macaw Parrots have different varieties that range from the smallest variety up to the largest variety with sizes of 12 inches to 3 feet respectively. They are renowned to have majestic physical attributes with the addition of great personality.
If you are in the hunt for a good pet, Macaw Parrots may not be the first thing on your mind. But, despite the many rumors that they are not good pets, they can be. Basically, you will need basic knowledge that you can obtain through research regarding their care and nature or characteristics in order for you to understand them. You only have to put up with their attitude and behavior so you can have a great companion in the home.

These birds can live for up to 80 years or even more especially when they are properly taken cared of. They are large that ranges from around 12 inches to more than 3 feet in length. The Green Wing Macaw alone is 36 inches when measured from head to tail and it is only second to the largest variety which is the Hyacinth Macaw.

Understanding Macaw Parrots as Pets

Before you go about looking for the right variety, you need to remember some key points first and perhaps understand the birds more.

1 - Ability to Talk. They are not really considered as great talkers and some of them have capabilities to talk up to 6 words but they are highly trainable for speech and especially excellent in language interaction.

2 - Great Personality. They actually have great personalities although at times they can be very demanding. But, if you can set aside even a little time each day to interact, socialize, train or exercise, you would do well. The only thing you need to remember is to not let out the parrot unsupervised especially when there are kids around. Among the popular birds that could be suitable for you is the Blue Gold Macaw.

3 - Basic Needs. You need to know basic care especially their diet and caging so that you both are in good connection with each other. These parrots are demanding therefore you must meet their needs to keep them satisfied otherwise the bird will only bother you. Also, you need a lot of patience. You may want to give them toys to keep them occupied and provide those perches, ropes and secure them properly. If you want to have Scarlet Macaw for example, you will have to research about its nature.

4 - Aggressive Behavior and Taming. These parrot's personality can sometimes be complex but since they are highly intelligent and trainable creatures, you only need patience and persistence to meet their needs. As long as you can put up with their behavior, these parrots as pets could be excellent.

Providing Bedding for Large Pets

If you really care for your pet and love him then you'd surely look after the things that provide him comfort. And this can be quite a venture if you own a large breed of pet. Though, no one needs to worry about it any more since Mammoth Pet Beds are easily available in extra large sizes. Therefore, if you own a large pet you should really consider about purchasing Mammoth Pet Beds for your four legged friend.

The next best reason to purchase Mammoth Pet Beds is the comfort they provide to your pet. If you’re pet is a large breed it is a lot more complicated to make them at ease. Think about it; does any one like to lie down on the floor? Is it comfortable? No we don't, and if it isn't easy for us would it be easy for them? It also depends on the breed of the pet; if it is a large sized pet then it would be a larger painful process. Mammoth Pet Beds provide a better level of comfort to your pet. Mammoth Pet Beds are designed with such fabrics that give an assurance of complete rest and comfort to your pet while he is asleep.

Do you keep worrying that your pet isn't feeling at ease? Why then do you keep on kicking your pet off of the sofa or easy chair? These are some of the places that they really feel relaxed in while asleep and those are the same places that you might have to work with. Therefore, Mammoth Pet Beds come off as a convenience for the people who own pets. If you provide your pet with their special place to sleep or rest then they wouldn't come out invading your area. A pet invading your area isn't very bad, but some times you really cannot accommodate them.

A special space for the pet must also be considered when you want to clean the house. Your pet, being an animal is common to getting dirty and making your furniture dirty. If the pet has just returned back after playing outside, their paws and body might be filthy and you really do not want them to hit upon your bed or other furniture. There are health concerns also attached with it. Mammoth Pet Beds can reduce your concerns.

Do not think that owning a large breed pet or any pet is trouble. You do not have to forgo their comfort. You can demonstrate your love by buying a Mammoth pet bed, since even he is a part of your family. Therefore, when considering the comfort of your pet or your handiness you just need to consider Mammoth pet beds.

How to Treat Mange

Dog mange is a condition caused by the Demodex mite that causes irritation to the skin and hair loss. Most cases of mange appear in young dogs. Demodectic mange or Demodicosis is caused by the Demodex mite. The mite can be found in hair follicles. The Demodex mite, in small numbers is normal to be present on the skin of pet. Only when the mite begins to reproduce rapidly it causes the demodectic mange disease also called mange.

Treatment of canine mange

If the disease is temperate usually it heals spontaneously. Statistics show that 90% of demodectic mange cases are localized and can be treated locally. As a local treatment can be diluted Amitraz (3ml to 30 ml of mineral oil), or 1% rotenone ointment (Goodwinol ointment) and applied on the skin daily. In some cases these wounds will heal on their own but they may get worse before they improve. The numbers of mites should be reduced after only four weeks of treatment.

If the number of mites hasn’t reduced, the disease probably should be treated as a generalized form. If a dog develops generalized demodicosis, more aggressive treatment is usually needed. Although treatment is recommended, studies show that 30% to 50 % of generalized cases of mange heal will recover on their own without any treatment.

As a first step in treating the generalized form of mange you should start the treatment with a prescription product called Amitraz (Mitaban-Upjohn). Amitraz dips must be applied every two weeks. Before starting the treatment it is recommended that medium-length and longhaired dogs breeds to be clipped short, so that the solution can get into contact with the skin. First you have to wash the dog entirely with an antibacterial shampoo, like benzoyl peroxide shampoos, and carefully towel dry the dog. Before washing you dog with benzoyl peroxide shampoo you should apply a protective ophthalmic ointment to the eyes of the pet. After drying the dog, apply the Amitraz. Don’t forget to wear protective gloves when applying the Amitraz. Let your pet air-dry after the Amitraz dips. You might also want to administer an antibiotic to control secondary skin infections. This treatment require between 4 and 14 dips given at 2 week intervals. Skin scrapings should be tested for mites after every 4 dips. The treatment should continue until no mites will be found after two consecutive treatments. Dogs with generalized mange can be considered cured only after one year from the last treatment, if no mites we’re found during this period. As side effects to the Amitraz dips, some dogs may feel sedation or nausea.

Some dogs may not respond to this treatment. Although Ivemectin is not licensed for the treatment of demodectic mange, this is used by some veterinarians as treatment for this disease. In some cases, this drug offered good results. Large daily doses of liquid ivermectin must be administered so that the active ingredient should be effective against the Demodex mite. This should only be administered under close veterinary supervision. A second option if Amitraz dips did not work for your dog is Interceptor or Moxidectin. This is may be more effective than Ivemectin. No matter the treatment you choose to treat your dog for mange, you should first speak with a veterinarian.

Dog Training Uncovered

Training your dog is no easy task; any pet owner can tell you that. While many dogs are very eager to please their owners, the bottom line is that they really don’t always understand what it is that you are saying and they have very, very short attention spans. These factors can make things difficult for even the most patient of owners, but before you are tempted to throw in the towel, let us consider some simple and basic dog training aids that you can use to help you along the way.

One of the best dog training aids that you can employ is to emphasize rewarding your dog for what he or she does right rather than simply punishing your dog when he or she does something wrong. Dogs crave attention and approval from their owners and will do just about anything to get it. If you want your dog to learn potty training, reward her when she goes in the right spot in the yard just as much as you scold her for going anywhere else. Many people neglect to include this positive reinforcement as part of their dog training aids arsenal, but that approval and affection can go a long way toward getting your dog to do what you want her to do!

Are there any training aids that we can purchase in order to help us with our dogs behaviour? Yes there are a number, and a visit to your local pet store will be quite an eye opener. Some of course are much better than others, as you would expect. Take for example dog leads. Nowadays, the experts tell us that choke chains and collars are not a good idea because they are of little benefit when training, but, a good study lead and collar on the other hand can work wonders when trying to get your dog to obey an instruction. Muzzles are another aid, not something that I like, but some people say that it help control a dogs barking both indoors and out.

Another weapon in your arsenal of dog traing aids is the good old fashioned grooming brush. Most dogs just love the time when they are groomed, and they also love having a toy to play with. Give them a chewy top and you will keep them happy for hours, and they won’t be looking to chew the furniture or get up to mischief. Another basic aid is you, yes, your playing with your dog is not only great fun for both of you, but it will make sure that he or she has little energy left to get into trouble. It does not cost anything to play, so make sure you do.

A final word to say about bathing your dog. They can be trained from an early age to enjoy this providing you use the right equipment. The shampoo that you use needs to be dog shampoo, not human shampoo, and a conditioner is helpful in order to making the combing activity easier later. Have a good size towel handy, and if necessary a leash in order to restrain them. You can make this an enjoyable activity for both of you providing as I said earlier, you start at an early age.

7 MYTHS of pet food

Read on to learn out the actual facts of general myths such as: By products are bad inedible & discarded animal parts, corn is a filler and is sickly digested, raw food is better than dry food, corn causes allergy, dry food induces bloating, extraordinary protein induces hot spot and etc.

MYTHS of pet food

Myth 1: By-products are bad, uneatable & discarded animal parts Fact 1: By-products are sometimes included in pet food as it is a very good source of protein. It is not bad and spoilt meat but actually comprises of animal body parts like feet, neck, kidney, stomach etc. These are common animal body parts that are commonly eaten by Chinese (Eg. Kway Chap & Pig Stomach soup).

Myth 2: Corn is a filler and poorly digested Fact 2: Corn can be badly digested if given in its physical form. In fact, if you give your pet a piece of fresh corn, it would most likely be indigestible and reappear in its stools. However, the corn seen in pet food is “Ground Corn” which means that it is finely grounded and handled carefully to help determine digestibleness. Ground corn can be more than 98% digestible. Corn is an greatest root of complex carbohydrates, contains linoleic acid for healthy skin and coat, provides for essential amino acids and has fiber.

Myth 3: Corn Gluten meal is bad Fact 3: Corn gluten meal is not corn. It is a well source of protein (60%-64%) and also it is a good urine acidifier to prevent/help urinary tract troubles in our pets

Myth 4: Animal origin proteins are better than proteins from plants and grains Fact 4: No single source of protein is perfect and no one source contains all essential amino acids. Animal and plant sources are good sources of protein. For instance, soyabean meal (high in methionine) complements chicken (low in methionine). The deviation is that true meat is a highly palatable protein source. The first ingredient for all PRO PLAN cat and dog products (except urinary tract health formula for cats-first ingredient is corn gluten meal as it is a good urine acidifier) are true chicken, turkey, lamb or salmon. This is why PRO PLAN is highly palatable and we assure that your dog/cat will love it.

Myth 5: BARF (Raw Food) is better than dry food Fact 5: Raw food diets Commonly are not perfect and well-balanced Danger of infection and pollution – Salmonella is very hazardous to both pets and humans and can be seen in the stools of pets. Bones can get stuck in your pets mouth

Myth 6: Cooking destructs enzymes and nutrients Fact 6: Cooking is advantageous. Cooking: Changes the digestibility of nutrients Changes structure of amino acids Breaks down non-nutritional components to increase digestibility Kills bacteria and parasites Dogs construct their own enzymes needed to digest food and utilize nutrients like protein. Also manufacturers of high quality pet foods sustain safety tolerances developed into formulations. Any nutritional loss in PRO PLAN during preparation and storage is reported for and will always be added back to assure high quality in our pet food.

Myth 7: Corn drives allergic reactions Fact 7: 10 different studies, representing 253 dogs Roundebush, Guilford , Shanely(2000) Adverse Reactions to Food, Small Animal Clinic Nutrition (4 th edition) Beef, dairy products and wheat account for 65% of all reported events of food allergies Chicken, egg, lamb and soy answer for for 25% of all reported cases of food allergic reactions Only 6 confirmed (2.4%) cases of allergies to corn

Shar Pei Nutrition

Not all dog foods are same. In fact, their qualities vary quite significantly. However, the dog itself can declare the final verdict, when it comes to the quality of the dog food. Your dog may show good results with a progressively healthy body and nice temperament if it is receiving good food. If this does not happen, no matter what its company claims, you are not feeding your dog well. Economy, Regular, Premium, Super Premium and Performance are different classes of commercially made dog foods.

Like any other dog breed, the Shar Pei has a simple stomach structure along with a short digestive tract. Shar Pei lacks saliva enzyme amylase, which is an essential food enzyme used to deal with pre-digesting starches.

Although Shar Pei dogs can be adapted to foods rich in vegetable proteins, they perform better when they are fed with foods rich in meat proteins as well as animal fats. Shar Pei nutrition essentially depends on two factors: nutrient sources similar to native environment and proper balance of nutrients in food.

Shar Pei nutrition requires vitamins and minerals added to the daily diet. However, the source of nutrients largely varies for different breeds. One source of mineral calcium may work fine for the Shar Pei, however may not work as well for other breeds. In fact, not all dogs from same breed require the same amount of nutrient content. It largely depends on a wide variety of factors including age, activity level, gender, weight, medical history, etc. For example, if your Shar Pei is very active, it may need more of the vitamin B complex.

As stated by many experienced breeders, homemade dog foods may also offer a perfect balance of Shar Pei nutrition. However, the food must be rich with fresh and high quality ingredients without any preservatives. Native foods most associated with supplying nutritional content are the essential requisites for preparing an ideal dog food for the Shar Pei. While beets, sweet potatoes, rice, corn, wheat, poultry meats, oxen and pork are perfect native choices for the Shar Pei, the food should also be rich with additional fiber and carbohydrate content as well. Stay away from avocado, potato, ocean fish, beef and lamb, as they are not good for your dog.

Here are two wonderful recipes for homemade ways to enhance Shar Pei nutrition. Cheesy Garlic Crunchy Snacks and Peanut Butter Treats can definitely help your dog to be healthy and active. For preparing Cheesy Garlic Crunchy Snacks, all you need two cups of shredded cheddar cheese, one half cup of melted margarine, two cups of whole-wheat flour, one clove of sliced garlic and one quarter cup of milk. Start by preheating the oven at 375?.

Blend margarine and cheese very well, then mix in the milk, garlic and flour and make it into smooth dough. Squeeze and roll the dough to a one-quarter inch thickness and cut it into smaller sizes in fun doggy shapes. Then bake for 20-25 minutes till the edges turn golden brown.

The ingredients of Peanut Butter Treats are two tablespoon of canola oil, one half cup of peanut butter, one cup of water, one cup of whole-wheat flour and two cups of white flour. Preheat the oven to 350?-375?. Mix all the ingredients together into a bowl except for the flour. Then add the flour slowly to the mixture, kneed gently to make dough and cut into small shapes. Bake it for 20-25 minutes just until crispy. Yummy!

Maine Coon Cats of Today

This beautiful cat which has a delightful bushy tail, and which is striped and with long fur, is in fact a domestic cat which is surprising considering how large it is. The Maine Coon is native to North America and furthermore is actually native to the state of Maine, where it has been made the State Cat.

The Maine Coon has been around for more than a century, and it is believed that their physical design enables them to withstand the harsh winters of New England. Everything from their overall size, to the shape of their paws, to the thickness of their fur makes them suitable animals for harsh winter weather. Furthermore, their fur has a water resistant quality to it.

Could the Maine Coon have come into existence as a result of the local domestic cats mating with cats brought over by the Vikings? There is after all a definite likeness between the Maine Coon, and the Norwegian Forest Cat. Some people think this is a more likely possibilty rather than the suggestion that local cats mated with raccoons, an idea which has been discounted by the experts.

The Maine Coon Cats of today would not have been considered as a part of the breed at one time. Only brown tabbies were referred to as Maine Coon Cats, and any ‘Maine Coon’ of a different color was referred to as a Maine Shag Cat. Cat experts largely agree that the Maine Coon is a product of mating between short haired domestic cats with long hair cats from overseas, at a time when people began migrating from Europe.

Maine Coons have very special personaities similar in many ways to the family dog. Call out their name, and they will come bounding towards you. Go out for the day, and on your return you will find them eagerly waiting for you on the doorstep. They love people, and other animals, and in return they like a lot of love and attention themselves.

You may or may not be aware that cat shows have been taking place around the country since 1861, and it was in the 1900’s, with the introduction of the Persian cat, that the Maine Coons popularity began to wane. But they bounced back again in the 1950’s and their own Association was formed in 1968, the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association, with the express purpose of protecting the breed. However it was another 12 years before all the cat registries recognized the breed.

Nowadays there are many, many people who are fortunate enough to own, exhibit and love a Maine Coon Cat. The Association which was founded many years ago by a mere six breeders has now grown to well over 200 breeders, and there are over 2000 other members who are not breeders as well.

Your Golden Retriever Puppy

If you have ever seen a new litter of Golden Retriever puppies, you know how absolutely irresistible these furry babies are. However, those cute mugs and fuzzy bodies belie a dog that is going to grow quickly, with an exuberance and energy that will require plenty of time and effort on the part of the owner.

The puppy phase of the Golden Retriever will often last as long as three years, meaning that you are in for a playful, rambunctious dog for many years ahead. This can be good in many ways, but it can also be a challenge to train these pups into controlled, well-behaved creatures.

The first step in caring for Golden Retriever puppies is selecting the right breeder and then choosing the best dog from that breeder We have tips to help you do that, and give you the supplies and information that you will need to collect before you ever bring that puppy home. If you are well prepared to receive your new pet into your home, you will be much more successful in the housebreaking and training of your dog. A Golden Retriever that is properly trained and cared for is a delight to his family and the visitors that come to his home.

The first step in finding Golden Retriever puppies is to find a reputable breeder, and this can be a process in itself. Because this breed is a popular one, there are many breeders supplying puppies, but not all the pups will be as healthy and good-tempered as you would like. Ask the breeder about his practices, how he breeds out inherited conditions and less desirable traits. Visit his home to see whether the dogs are a member of his family and well socialized to people. A good breeder will also question you to see if you will be able to provide the best home possible for his precious pups.

Ask the breeder if he has documentation to show that he is actively breeding out hereditary disorders, and get the veterinarian records for the particular litter that you are considering. A good breeder will have questions for you also, since responsible breeders will want to make sure that their dogs go to the best homes possible.

There are plenty of reasons why Golden Retriever puppies consistently top the lists of most popular dogs today. When you choose a Golden Retriever pup from a reputable breeder, you will acquire a friendly, inquisitive dog with an insatiable desire to please his master.

When you have stocked your home with the right supplies and information for your new dog, you can rest assured that your puppy will receive the best care and training right from the beginning of his life with you.

When you prepare well and select your pup with care, a Golden Retriever can be the perfect choice in pets for many families today. A friendly dog that is always ready to play and never wants to be far from his family, the Golden Retriever has a well deserved reputation as one of the most popular breeds today. If you decide to add a Golden to your family, you will have a dog that will bring years of enjoyment and companionship to everyone in your family.

The Donut Dog Bed Style

One of the more traditional, classic styles is the donut dog bed. This bed isn’t the latest and greatest in fashion, and there are many designer beds out there that may seem better. However, the classic design of this dog bed is that it has consistently shown itself to be both comfortable for dogs and nice to look at for owners.

One thing everyone really likes about donut dog beds is that you can quickly take them apart. The bed includes two parts: a cushioned ring that is made out of very soft, comfortable material, and a sturdy base that is padded very well. This design gives your dog something to rest its head on and keeps him from using pillows off of your sofa or even your bed.

The removable cushion on the bottom is often very soft in a donut dog bed and your furry friend will enjoy sleeping on its warm softness. If you are planning on traveling and your dog will be sleeping in the car while you drive then it is a good idea to go ahead and remove the larger ring and just use the bottom cushion to give you more room in the vehicle while providing the best comfort for your companion.

Another great use for this pad is for those times that you have to put your dog in a crate. Crates tend to not be padded at all, so placing the bottom part of your donut dog bed inside the crate adds a lot of comfort to it. Once you return home or can let your dog out of the crate, it doesn’t take much to reattach the top ring and recreate your dog’s favorite napping spot. This ability is one of the best features of the donut dog bed and essentially gives you two beds in one.

When looking into what type of bed you are planning on purchasing for your dog, you should know that donut dog beds are extremely durable. These pads have been made in a way that allows them to be disassembled and washed repeatedly. So, even if there are accidents, you can rest assured in knowing that your canine ’s favorite sleeping spot can easily be cleaned.

The cushion in a donut dog bed may be made out of a variety of different materials, including wool, flannel, leather, and microfiber. Deciding on which fabric to get is pretty easy-just take a look at what you need. A puppy or active dog may need a durable bed made from wool, while an older dog may appreciate the comfort that microfiber entails. Find the bed that’s best suited to your dog.

There are also a range of sizes offered for those interested in purchasing a donut dog bed. This form of bed can be ordered to fit anything from a Chihuahua to a Great Dane. However, if you are purchasing the item for a larger breed puppy, be sure to calculate the animal ’s full grown size as they could outgrow their bed in just a few short months if it is too small.

Since the design of the donut dog bed is so popular, there is also a wide range of fabric patterns that you can select from. While color and design are not the most important trait of choosing the perfect sleeping arrangements for your canine friend, it can be a fun element to find something that perfectly matches your dog ’s attitude. Or, if you plan to put the fixture in a decorated room, you might find something to match that decor.

With all of these great features, it’s obvious why the donut dog bed has scored so highly with owners and their pets. It’s a very comfortable, sturdy, and even flexible style of dog bed that has many different uses. While other dog beds can provide some of these features, there’s nothing like a donut dog bed when you want a classic sleeping space for your dog.

Picking Cool Dog Clothing is fun

Who says you have to be the only fashionsable one in the house? With today’s design trends, your dog can be as fashionable as you with his own collection of dog clothing. This dog clothing can be used as everyday wear or for special occasions and you will never imagine all of the dog clothing products that are available for your dog. Some dog clothing is top of the line which will cost you a pretty penny while the test is rather inexpensive.

So what kinds of dog clothing are available? There are dog sweaters, dog life jackets and vests, dog coats and jackets, dog shirts and warm up gear, dog dresses, dog pajamas, dog sweaters and ponchos, dog raincoats and booties as well as an array of costumes to celebrate different occasions. This dog apparel is very cute and fashionable. They are made for all types of dog sizes in mind, but particularly for the little ones.

You should never let your pup feel a cold breeze when he is out for a walk. Therefore, you should pick up something warm for him to wear while out on the street like a poncho, sweater, scarf or jacket. All of these items are fashionable and come lined in fleece and some even adorn faux fur hoodies, turtle necks, thermal hoodies. Outdoor activities such as going camping are the ideal situation to pick up a heavy jacket for your pup.

The styles of jackets vary put are very attractive. If you are going out for a walk you may want a sporty jacket lined with nylon and reflective stripes. If you want to draw some fashionable attention you may want to put your dog in a parka jacket. These dog apparel jackets come in suede and faux fur as well for those cold winter days lines with fleece.

If you love to run and occasionally go for a walk or run together, you may want to match. There are a variety of doggy sweat suits that are available. Some come with reflector stripes in case you are going out around dusk, hoodies, racer sripes, wind and rain resistance, thermal materials and more. There are even pucci couture suits a play on the brand name juicy couture which are velour sweat suits that are available in pastel colors. Or you can take your pup to your rugby game in his rugby tee to support the team and maybe get in on some of the action.

Sometimes the rain can be an ugly thing but not if your pup is dressed in some of the finest waterproof dog clothing available. There are rain boots and rain jackets made especially for dogs so that they stay dry and healthy. You will never have a sick puppy after taking a walk in the rain while dressed for the weather. The majority of this pet apparel is designer dog clothes using only the finest materials like micro fiber fabric and non skid soles for the shoes.

This year you and your pup can dress up for the most anticipated dressing up holiday of the year; Halloween. Some themes include your pup dressing up as a reindeer, Santa, zebras, giraffes, chickens, cats, ghosts witches, devils, skunks, ballerinas, superheroes and many more. In addition to Halloween he can dress up for Christmas too in one of these fine get ups as a reindeer or as Santa.

Your dog will be comfortable in any of these fun outfits. Dog clothing is made to let your pup run free and play while also keeping him protected from the harsh weather such as the cold, rain and snow. Nevertheless some items are very breathable allowing your pup to breathe through his clothes in case it may get a bit hotter in the afternoon. Your dog will be the most fashionable of all running around the doggy park and will make everyone jealous.

Where Will I Find Dog Cookie Pet Treats?

There are several internet stores that cater to animals, and where you will find dog cookie pet treats. I have included a few of them in this article and listed some of the dog cookie pet treats they offer.

Dog pet treats made by the canine Cookie Company are normally oven baked and made from the richest ingredients, sometimes corn syrup and molasses are used to sweeten them up. There is no extra salt added or even processed sugar in the treats. It is possible to find several options while searching for these cookie treats. ‘BAGGED TREATS’ are one of the best options which are found in bags of 10 ounces and a price of around $4.15.

Another very good dog cookie pet treats internet store is Pet Smart and you can see some of their products listed below.

Great Choice Healthy Treats are available at a price of $3.49.

Exclusively Dog Peanut Butter Flavor Sandwich Crme Dog Cookies only for $1.99.

Exclusively Dog Vanilla Flavor Sandwich Crme Dog Cookies can be ordered for $1.99, (there are also duplex Sandwich Crme Dog Cookies available for the same price).

Buy Exclusively Dog Best Buddy Bones Cheese Flavor dog treats at $1.99

The Old Dog Cookie Company offers treats that are all natural, yet help pets with Arthritis relief and diabetes management. These treats are herbal based, to help you maintain good health for your pet. These cookies are very good for older dogs as they help with the pain of arthritis. The Old Dog Cookie Company was started in 1996. They are geared to creating a much better life for older dogs with arthritis, and any dog with diabetes. They are dedicated to the life of your best friend.

Apart from these there are many other sites which serve dog food which are made from completely healthy and natural ingredients. Some of these products are just simply and tasty, while some others which serve the gourmet in Rover have different varieties. To find required stuff check all of them out.

Good Western Racing Horses

Whenever the term "Western horse" is used, most people picture a rough-and-tumble rodeo - an event full of color but so full of danger, too, that no youngster would be permitted to enter the regular events. What few people realize is that many small, country horse shows have classes open to Western horses. The wide range of these local shows gives them their importance to the show world, and if you own a Western horse, you should pay attention so you'll know about the shows in time to enter your horse.In case you strongly prefer western riding, you don't have to worry about being left out of the fun - or change your style simply because you thought all horse shows were exclusively for English riders. "Well," you may be thinking, "all I have to do, then, is to pick out the kind of horse I want and then use a western saddle and bridle on him. That's just fine."But it isn't quite as simple as that! You wouldn't advise a person about to go on a hunt to use an American saddle horse on the chase. You'd suggest he use a thoroughbred - or a horse with thoroughbred characteristics. The same standards of suitability hold true if you're picking out a Western horse for yourself. Suppose that, during your excursions to find a horse, a big, long-limbed thoroughbred strikes you as a handsome animal - one you'd like to own. After all, you reason, he has speed, courage, stamina - just right for a Western horse.Strictly in terms of breeds, the Morgan and the Arabian offer good Western horse prospects.Both are small horses and have plenty of strength and endurance. The Morgan is compact and therefore good at making fast turns, stops and starts. The Arabian is traditionally a desert horse and so is capable of working on little food and foraging for himself. Also, he has a perfect canter.However good Morgans and Arabians may be, an important western breed we haven't yet talked about is the quarter horse. Every Westerner will boast of the qualities of this breed, but the fact is that the quarter horse had his beginnings in the East - in Virginia.In the late 1600's, Virginia gentlemen enjoyed racing their stock but there were no big race tracks available. They would use stretches of road near the towns - the road lap usually being about a quarter of a mile long. The distance became standardized and men began to breed horses especially for these quarter-mile races. Usually the breeder combined imported English horses either with the speedy little runners developed by the Chickasaw Indians or with a Rhode Island variety which had come down from New England and competed successfully against earlier Virginia horses. Then a horse named Janus, an English racer with thoroughbred bloodlines, was imported and began to transmit his characteristics to all his offspring. In time, the entire breed was influenced by the speed and power he passed on to his foals, and, as sprinters, Quarter horses became unbeatable. Then, when racetracks were built, the Easterners gave up the quarter Horse in favor of thoroughbred racing on longer tracks. But ranchers and cowboys soon discovered that the compactness of the quarter horse enabled him to turn quickly and stop short. In fact, many people who want a Western horse get a quarter horse. Western horses come in all shapes and sizes, you just need to find the one that's right for you.

Do you need a dog?

Once in the street you have seen it. Alternatively, you were on a visit at friends and saw it. The colleague has brought photos and you saw it. In general, it is not important where and under what circumstances it has happened. It is not important, what dog you saw. Important is, that you had the idea "Should I have a dog?"And you start to think, what exactly will be changed in your life after appearance of a dog. It turns out, that when you have a dog you get more negative things than positive ones.The dog takes away a lot of free time (which you could spend for yourself). You have to get up early and run out in the street at any weather. Then you have to wash its paws pulling and pushing your dog to bathroom (some dogs do not like it) and then catch the wet pat if it managed to escape from your hands. After catching, washing and drying the dog you have to feed it. If the dog eats the fodder, it is not difficult, but what if it likes natural feed.When you leave, you should hide all your things beyond the reach of the dog, because many of them staying alone and longing for the owner begin to chew all his stuff.Some dogs crush apartments. However, having returned, you cannot even swear as it was made of melancholy and love to you (is it possible to abuse for love?). Moreover, it was so long ago, that the dog has already forgotten and does not connect punishment with such trifle as the spoiled door or the wallpaper removed from walls, and connects it only with the arrival of the owner. Hence, punishment is not only senseless, but also harmful! While working, you will think what exactly will be rotten, chewed, crippled and slavered today and up to what degree it will be done. What will your neighbours tell you? Many dogs accompany the melancholy with howling. Not all neighbors adore your dog just as you and they do not consider that â€this terrible howl” œthis terrible howl” is music. You have to walk a lot with your dog because it was alone at homeIt is your problem if you still did not eat and drink! After walking couple of hours (in spite of what the weather is outdoor) you have to repeat a trick with washing and drying dog's paws, clean your apartment and then you can start to cook a supper not for yourself or your family but for the dog! You should feed your dog first because it has the regimen and the breaking of this regimen will cost you more expensively, than the disturbing of your own one. However, from the dominance point of view, you should take into account that your dog must eat after you. In the evening you must take care of your dog's hair (longhaired dogs should be scratched, sleek-haired dogs should be cleaned with a rubber mitten, wire-haired dogs should be trimmed, bare dogs should be smeared with creams). However, you may not do this, if you like to wash your apartment from dog'™s paws, clean your apartment and then you can start to cook a supper not for yourself or your family but for the dog! You should feed your dog first because it has the regimen and the breaking of this regimen will cost you more expensively, than the disturbing of your own one. However, from the dominance point of view, you should take into account that your dog must eat after you. In the evening you must take care of your dog’s hair (longhaired dogs shouldYou have to spend a lot of money. Forages, ammunition, toys, vitamins, vermifugal drugs and vaccines - all this costs much more expensively, than the similar goods for people. Then services of the ringmaster, groomer and veterinarian go. If you got the exhibition specimen, if you are lucky and your dog wins, you will receive nice ribbon and if not, you will get handshake of the expert and a piece of paper with the description. To tell the truth, nowadays valuable prizes are given on the large international exhibitions, but not everyone can get them, and participation, preparation and travel will cost you such sum that it would be easier to purchase these prizes in a shop. If you decide that your dog must have posterity, you will have to spend large amount of money. You should not expect that having sold pups, you would suddenly grow rich. First, you should find, who will by it. To make money on dogs it is necessary to be serious professional (not only in cynology, but also in business) or to have luck, which extremely seldom happens! What will you do if the dog is ill? There is nothing to speak about. Do you still want to get a dog?Dog is a source of mud and illnesses. The mud falls of a dog'™s paws, a spit runs of a mouth, and finally its hair comes out. Dogs have the habit to defecate in apartment up to the certain age, and some of them keep this "nice" habit during all the life. Besides, the dog (in most cases) eats not so accurately, and on eaten wipes a muzzle using you and your furniture. Dogs periodically pick different rubbish in the street that is why the dog smells like rubbish. Do not forget that after picking the rubbish the dog will feel sick at home. Have I still not convinced you?The dog has ability to spoil your mutual relations with other people. You will quarrel with parents (which are not pleased, that you pay less attention to them, than before appearance of a dog). Your relations with neighbors will be spoiled as the dog barks when you are at home, howls when you are not present, missing you, it also defecates near the house, frightens small children and old men with its awful outward. If you will get a serious dog, you may quarrel with the dear person if your dog does not like him or her. However, it is possible to a meet a dog lover and then to combine appointments with the dog walks. Your friends will stop visiting you because of its hair, mud and a dribbling head on the knees when your friend eats. You cannot take the dog with you since mud, hair and spittle in apartments of friends will please them even less, than in your apartment.Have you changed your mind? Do you consider, what all this is a trifle comparing with an adoring dog view? Then you really need the dog and it is not clear how you lived without it until now! If you can live without a dog - do not have it! Well, and if you cannot… I congratulate you, you have become one of us!

Top Reasons to Training Dog Trick

Sit! Roll over! Jump! Teaching your dog tricks might not be the easiest thing in the world, but it's highly beneficial to you and your dog. Teaching your dog tricks can help strengthen your relationship with your beloved pet in many ways. Below are some great reasons why you should start teaching your dog tricks.1. Make everyone safe- While learning to teach your dog tricks, you learn many training techniques which can also be used to gain control over your dog. Teaching him basic tricks like sit and stay can also be used in life situations like crossing the street or entering a store.2. Give Your Dog Something to Do- It doesn't take long before your dog gets bored and decides to take on a new hobby of chewing anything in sight, including your brand new sofa. Teaching your dog tricks will keep him focused on the task at hand, and will entertain him for hours!3. Help Keep Your Dog's Mind Sharp- Training your dog will keep his mind active and responsive. As dogs get older they become less physically active, but learning tricks will keep his mind active and alert. 4. Help Create a Better Bond between You and Your Dog- Your dog will look up to you as being the pack leader, and will listen to you instead of trying to get your attention in destructive ways. Best of all, once your dog learns tricks you two become a team when training or performing.5. Show Off- You can show off your dog if you teach it some cool tricks, and your dog will get people's attention. Dogs love attention and they love being in the spotlight so they will like performing in front of your friends and family. Of course, you will also get the recognition of being a star trainer.6. Make Vet Check Ups Easier- Both the veterinarian and you hate it when your dog can't control itself during a check up. If you teach it to be calm during the check up, it will make both of your lives easier, and you won't control itself during a check up. If you7. Gives Your Dog a Hobby- We all have hobbies we like to do such as watching TV or playing games, but dogs also need things to do. Training dog tricks is great to do on rainy days when you can't take him for a walk.If these reasons have inspired you to teach your dog tricks, then you've come to the right place. Dog Trick Academy and our community is devoted to help teach your dog tricks, we keep it fun and entertaining!

Matin Sugar Gliders

Okay. So maybe you really didn’t want to hear about your pet’s sex life. However, it will be necessary for you to learn how the sugar glider mates if you are going to take care of it. You will want to research this aspect of owning a sugar glider before you invest in one. Some of the most basic facts about the sugar gliders sex life include the following:

Since sugar gliders live most of their infancy in their mothers’ pouches, they are able to breed quite easily. That period of time is approximately 2.3 to 3 months.

They attached to the mother’s nipple until they no longer need to be. If you remove them too early from the mother they will not be able to reattach themselves. This is important for you to remember during the mating and breeding process.

They breed after about 8 months, and they mate year round. When they mate they usually produce two offspring at a time, but have been known to produce at least 4 babies a year. In order for this to happen the newly weaned animals need to be removed right away from the mother.

Sugar glider females reach sexual maturity at between 8-12 months and males reach maturity at about 12-15 months.

It is suggested to leave the mother along during the birthing process. However, sometimes the males remain present during it. Then, just after the babies are born, the male steps in and helps feed them.

Infant sugar gliders are feed mostly semi-solid foods such as low-fat fruit yogurts and baby food until about three months old (along with the mother’s milk).

The process of the separation of the baby from the mother glider causes some minor stress for a few days. Female sugar gliders are usually aggressive after female young when they reach three months old and older. The males are often ignored.

If you want to breed sugar gliders and sell them, you will need a license. To obtain information about obtaining this license you can call the U.S. Department of Agriculture and ask them for more information, or you can write them. They also have a website that you can visit. Furthermore, if you want to know how to promote your business in the event you obtain a license to sell these animals you can find contact the USDA regarding that as well.

If you want to prevent your sugar gliders from producing, it will be necessary to have them spayed or neutered. However, it is not recommended to have the females spayed unless it is for medical reasons. The males, on the other hand, are very easy to neuter and done in some cases as a birth control method. The other option is to just purchase only one sex of sugar gliders if your only intention of owning one is to enjoy it as a pet.

The neutering process should only be done under the direction and care of a licensed veterinarian, with the animal under anesthetics. Usually this procedure is only performed on sugar gliders if the owner does not want to breed. If you own a sugar glider and are considering letting them reproduce you will not want to get them neutered. Most likely it would be very difficult to get this procedure reversed.

Now that you know some facts about the sugar glider’s sex life you will be prepared in the event you have a female who is pregnant, even if not planned. If you suspect that your pet is pregnant, you will want to have it checked out by a vet. In addition, you will also want to make sure your female pet receives proper nutrition so that it carries healthy babies and produces strong offspring.

After the new glider babies are weaned and are on solid foods you can begin to carry them around in a bonding pouch. You can even carry them around while they are sleeping. It is important to have as much contact with these animals as possible because they will need to be used to it, because they will be handled quite a bit in their new home.

If you want to learn more about the sexual activity of sugar gliders as pets, and you want to learn more about breeding them you can read more articles like this one. Furthermore, you can ask questions of any vet who deals with small exotic animals such as the Australia and Guinea native-the sugar glider.

HOW HORSES SLEEP

How horses sleep: What does your horse need to sleep well? Maybe not what you think, say equine-behavior experts.


You're at a show, and it's almost time to warm up for your next class. Butterflies are starting to flap up a storm in your stomach. You glance over at your horse. Is he feeling the excitement?

Nope. He's standing next to you with eyes closed and head hanging. How could he sleep at a time like this?

A comfortable bed, darkness, privacy, and eight hours of peace and quiet-that's what you need to sleep well. But your horse's needs are very different. Knowing about those differences can help you ensure that he gets the rest he needs.

"Horses have sleep patterns typical for prey species that evolved on open plains," says Sue McDonnell, PhD, head of the Equine Behavior Lab at the University of Pennsylvania's School of Veterinary Medicine. There isn't a huge body of research on equine sleep, she notes. But over the past twenty years or so, she's gathered detailed data on the daily behaviors--including sleep patterns--of stabled and feral horses in a wide range of settings throughout the world. Here, she and two other equine-behavior experts will share their insights--so read on to learn your horse's sleep secrets...and what he needs to sleep best.

To Sleep, Perchance to Flee

Not every horse falls asleep waiting around at a show, but all horses can sleep standing up. Your horse has a sort of internal hammock-a system of tendons and ligaments called the stay apparatus. This system lets him lock his legs in position so (unlike you) he can relax his muscles and doze off without keeling over. Even when he's not sleeping, he uses the stay apparatus to rest muscles and reduce fatigue.

Being able to sleep standing up is a great advantage for a prey animal. If a mountain lion comes creeping through the underbrush, the horse can be off and running without wasting precious seconds struggling to his feet. Horses plan for a quick getaway in choosing resting places, too. Out in the open, they go for sheltered areas but position themselves to get out fast--butts to the windbreak, heads pointing toward a likely escape route. "They're like volunteer firemen who back their cars into parking spaces so they can pull out fast," Sue McDonnell says. In many cases, even horses in box stalls rest standing toward the back of the stall, facing the door.

Down Time

Even though they're able to snooze standing, horses apparently need to lie down for rest and sleep at least some of the time. In fact, scientists think horses must lie down to go into deep stages of sleep. Like humans and many other animals, horses experience both slow-wave sleep (SWS) and rapid-eye-movement (REM) deep sleep. (SWS is characterized by slow, synchronized waves of electrical activity in the brain as recorded by electroencephalography. REM sleep is characterized by jerky eye movements and rapid, disorganized brain waves.) REM sleep seems to occur mostly when the horse is stretched out flat on his side, rather than resting on his chest.

People dream during REM sleep, and it seems that horses do, too. Beneath closed lids, their eyes move rapidly back and forth. Sue McDonnell has even seen some horses move their feet as if "trotting" in their dreams. But what horses dream about is anyone's guess.

Power Naps

Studies of herds of wild and semi-wild horses show that horses take "power naps" and use the buddy system to get the rest they need while keeping safe from predators.

If you're like most people, you need a good, solid eight hours of unbroken rest every night. If you don't get it, you drag through the following day dull, drowsy, and sleep-deprived. You might assume that your horse has similar needs. But according to Sue McDonnell, horses do well with far less sleep than people.

Horses typically spend anywhere from four to fifteen hours a day in standing rest, and anywhere from minutes to several hours lying down. Only part of that is actual sleep time, taken in brief naps that last a few minutes each. The daily total sleep time for an adult horse may range from a few minutes to a couple of hours. Foals and young horses, like other youngsters, sleep more, more deeply, and more often than adults.

This pattern is another plus for a prey animal: His sleep can be interrupted repeatedly by predators and false alarms, but he'll still function. Rarely does a horse suffer from true sleep deprivation, says Sue McDonnell. The minimum amount of deep (lying-down) sleep he needs is very small--perhaps an hour in many days. Still, if he doesn't get that minimum, he eventually begins to drift off into what appears to be deep sleep while standing-and buckles at the knees.

Where you want your rest in a solid block of time, horses spread theirs out in scattered periods throughout the day and night. According to Sue McDonnell, "For any horse or group of horses, there is usually a recurrent pattern of rest and other activities," such as grazing. The pattern varies with the weather, the season and what's going on around the horse. Stabled horses, affected by the activity around them, typically get much of their sleep during the evening and early morning hours.

"Horses tend to learn the pattern of the barn," Sue McDonnell says, "and their deepest rest and sleep tend to occur soon after the busy 'people day' ends."

Buddy System

You're probably not surprised to hear that horses sleep best when they feel safe from danger. But the factors that help them feel safe may not be what you think. When you put your horse in his stall and close the door, you know he's protected. But he likely feels isolated and confined-and for a horse, isolation and confinement can be dangerous.

As part of her work at U of P, Sue McDonnell has studied the behavior of a semi-wild herd of ponies over time. She says feral horses actually sleep more than stabled horses. They also get more down time: As members of a herd, they're able to relax because one horse acts as a sentinel, standing guard while the rest snooze. "In feral groups, all individuals tend to rest together, eat together, go to water together. The young may get additional rest and sleep during grazing, with the protection of the adults." The adults share the sentinel duty, so everybody gets to lie down.

Solitary adult horses tend to get less deep sleep than horses in groups--probably because, with no sentinel on guard duty, and no other horses to help deal with danger, the solo horse feels he has to look out for himself at all times. He startles out of sleep at the slightest disturbance. In many cases you'll see horses stabled next to each other rest standing against the two sides of their shared stall wall, Sue McDonnell says--probably to take advantage of the sentinel effect.

Does your horse eat like a pig?

Yes! Then acorns are one porcine delicacy he should avoid.

Acorns are seeds or nuts produced by oak trees. There are more than 60 varieties of oaks in the continental United States. The bark, leaves and acorns contain an acidic chemical commonly known as tannin.

Tannin has a bitter taste and is an astringent (contracts tissues and draws out fluids). It can damage the liver and kidneys of horses. Tannin also interferes with the utilization of protein.

All plants contain some level of tannin. Oaks contain high levels. Within the family of oaks, red or black oak varieties contain the most tannin; white oak varieties contain the least. Buds and early spring leaves have a higher concentration of tannin than mature leaves. Green acorns have a higher concentration than ripe acorns.

Live Oak Acorns

Squirrels, birds and deer eat acorns with no apparent problems. These free roaming species search out the less bitter tasting acorn varieties (less bitter means a lower tannin level). Stored and ripe acorns that have been soaked due to rain will also be lower in tannin. Tannin is water soluble and leaches out. It is important to note these animals have access to other foods which will help buffer and dilute the tannin.

Poisoning due to the ingestion of acorns is rare in horses which have access to plenty of good quality forage. An occasional acorn throughout the day should not harm a healthy horse with a digestive system full of long-stem fiber.

The ingestion of buds and spring leaves should be avoided. Make sure low hanging or broken branches are removed before they can be eaten. Providing plenty of forage will help deter horses from eating these forbidden windfalls.

Occasionally a horse will develop a taste for acorns. Such an individual would rather eat acorns than good quality forage. If your horse is one of these fanatics you will have to remove the horse from the pasture which contains the forbidden nut.

The signs of acorn poisoning can be: loss of appetite, excessive salivation, blood in the urine or manure, colic-like pain, slow or irregular heart-rate, elevated temperature, pale mucous membranes, watery eyes and a depressed attitude. In the early stages manure is hard and dark in color; the horse may be constipated. Often, in the later stage, the manure changes to diarrhea. Mouth ulcers may form; salvia may escape from the nose. In extreme cases liver and kidney failure ensues and other organs begin to hemorrhage. Some poisoned horses may founder.

Horses that are extremely sensitive to tannin or have eaten large quantities of oak leaves, bark or acorns may die.

If your horse develops acorn poisoning there is no antidote. The common treatment is supportive care. The affected horse must be removed from the source of the poisoning. Your veterinarian will probably give intravenous fluids to help flush out the toxins. Mineral oil and charcoal may be given to help rid the digestive system of the tannin. Hay and water is made available, which also helps dilute the poisonous material in the digestive system. Your veterinarian may also give pain killers to help make your horse more comfortable.

The best thing for the health of your horses and trees is to protect them from each other. Horses are hard on trees. They disturb the root system, chew the bark when bored and rub the branches. Forests or woods do not make good pasture. Fence off any trees. If the trees are providing shelter or shade erect a horse-safe structure, such as a three-sided loafing shed.

There is nothing more beautiful than a majestic oak tree and a horse - they just shouldn't be in the same picture.

Winter Care For Horses

Baby, it's cold outside!

Providing a comfortable and healthy environment helps ensure the horse will enter the busy spring season as healthy as possible. Nutrition, shelter and basic health are important year around, but during the cold winter months, are critical.

NUTRITION:

Water is the most important nutrient in a horse's diet. Many colic cases occur due to dehydration. Fresh, clean water accessible 24 hours a day is mandatory.

Heated water buckets, stock tank deicers or heated automatic waterers help ensure water remains unfrozen. These units must be cleaned and monitored daily.

Water and electricity do not mix! Follow installation instructions. Install ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFI/GFCI) outlets.

Have a back-up water source in case exposed water lines freeze.

Do not expect a horse to eat snow or break through the ice and remain healthy.

The average adult horse at rest requires about 10 gallons of water per day. Many horses will not drink cold water. It may be necessary to offer warmer water. The preferred temperature is 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4 C).

Horses are grazers. Access to plenty of good, clean, nutritional forage (hay) is mandatory. The digestion of fiber in the hindgut generates heat and helps keep the horse warm.

In a perfect world horses would have grass hay available free choice at all times. But at least a minimum of 1.5% - 2.0% of the body weight should be fed each day; this amount will vary with individual horses and hay quality.

A balanced commercial feed that complements the forage and meets the horse's nutritional requirements should be offered.

The barn manager needs to evaluate each individual horse:

? Is the horse lacking protein? Signs are poor muscle tone over the back, shoulders, and loin area. Poor hoof quality and hair coat are also symptoms of protein deficiency. Chose a commercial mix that provides good quality protein.

? Is the horse receiving enough calories? All horses should have some fat covering the rib area. Close your eyes and run your hand over his ribs - how much pressure must you apply in order to feel ribs? If you can feel ribs without applying any pressure he needs calories - add a balanced commercial mix designed for the age, health and activity level of the horse. Follow the feeding directions. If you can't feel ribs and want to decrease calories make sure you don't short him on protein, vitamins and minerals.

? Is the horse a pregnant mare, a stallion ready to enter breeding season, a young horse starting training, a senior having a weight problem, or a horse with health problems? The hay usually will not provide all the nutrition needed for these individuals. Vitamin, mineral and energy requirements must be considered for each horse.

A common misconception is increasing or adding corn to the diet, thinking it will keep the horse warm. Corn will increase digestible energy in the diet, but will not generate internal heat. Offer more hay instead!

SHELTER:

Most healthy horses will be fine if they are provided a windbreak and dry, clean place to stand and lie down.

Horses with special concerns such as seniors, foals or compromised health will need individual care. Observe the horse: Is he shivering? Is he standing by himself with a depressed attitude and no interest in his surroundings? This horse needs immediate attention.

Do not expect a horse to stand ankle deep in mud and remain healthy.

Horses kept in air-tight stalls can develop respiratory problems. Make sure the stalls are well-ventilated and ammonia from urine does not build-up. Avoid drafts.

Blanketed horses need to be checked daily. Make sure the blankets are clean and fit properly. Be sure the horse is not sweating.

BASIC HEALTH CARE:

Deworming - it is important to prepare horses for the stress of winter by maintaining a good deworming program. A horse supporting a large worm count will have trouble remaining healthy during the winter months.

Hoof care - it is easy to ignore the care of the hooves during the cold and often muddy winter season -- "no hoof, no horse." Horses need regular farrier work and the hooves kept clean. A horse standing in a wet dirty stall is prone to thrush and other hoof problems.

Vaccinations - a good vaccination program is important. If a horse becomes sick with a disease that could have been prevented through vaccination the recovery time can be longer during the stress of the winter months; not to mention the added work for the caretaker, who is also struggling with the routine chores.

Exercise - horses need routine exercise to maintain good digestive movement, good mental attitude and muscle tone. If the horse becomes sweaty and hot be sure to cool him out properly.

Do not neglect your horse during inclement weather. Yes, it is dark, cold and windy, but your horse depends on you.

Weight Gain For Horses

If a horse is under-weight, it's hard to get him fat.

Whoa! It's easy; just feed him more, you say.

Well, it's not that simple

Before we start thinking about increasing feeds and making changes we need to make sure the horse is truly underweight. We are so accustomed to seeing "well-rounded" horses when we see a fit horse we tend to think he is underweight.

Dr. Don Henneke developed the industry standard for determining the condition of a horse in regard to body fat. The body condition score (BCS) rates horses on a scale of 1-9. One is a walking skeleton and nine is obese.

The desired score for most horses would be 5 - Moderate: The back is flat with no crease or ridge. Ribs are not visible, but can be felt with very slight pressure. Fat around the tail head feels somewhat spongy. Fat along the withers and over the top of the back vertebrae make them somewhat rounded. The shoulders and neck blend smoothly into the body. For more information about the body condition score chart visit www.thewayofhorses.com

A horse that is severely underweight cannot recover from disease or illness quickly, is apt to become sick, will have poor quality hooves, will not be able to maintain body heat in cold weather, will not be able to perform or recover from exertion and will not thrive.

The first steps to take in helping the underweight horse is determine why he is thin. There could be one or several reasons.

1. Have a veterinarian visit to rule out illness. A latent infection may be present.
2. Have the vet or an equine dentist check the teeth. Malocclusion (teeth do not meet properly), high points, missing teeth, infection, sores and other problems may be causing chewing problems or causing the horse not to eat.
3. Have a good de-worming program in place. Conduct a fecal exam several times a year to determine worm types and load.
4. Ask your veterinarian about the possibilities of ulcers. He may recommend scoping the horse to detect ulcers. You may decide to try the ulcer medications without a scope and see if they help.
5. Alleviate stress.
6. Is he getting enough to eat and is it of good quality? The high price of hay, cheap commercial feeds, cutting back to save money and the shortage of good pasture for grazing are the most likely reasons for a thin horse. If this is the reason the horse is thin - it's time to sell the horse.
7. The horse may be a senior horse and can't utilize the nutrients available in feeds any longer.

Once the cause of the thinness is determined how to fix it can be addressed.

Your veterinarian can help you with disease, dental problems, deworming or ulcers. Alleviating the stress, providing better quality feed and more of it, better management and commitment to the care of the senior horse is up to you.

ALLEVIATING STRESS

You must alleviate as much stress as possible when dealing with a nervous horse. These horses may have high metabolisms and burn calories easily. Stall walking and weaving is not going to help maintain or gain weight.

The nervous horse may calm down if another animal is nearby. If your horse is alone try getting a goat or pony for companionship.

Providing a stall with plenty of windows, a Dutch door or stall guard so the horse can look out may help calm a nervous horse. Try hanging hay net filled with hay outside the door so he can munch on hay while watching the activity around the barn. Grabbing a mouth full of hay and running to look out the door can burn calories. Continue to provide hay on the floor in the stall so he can also eat in the natural position with his head down.

More turn-out time with plenty of forage may also help the nervous horse. If the lot does not have adequate forage you can scatter hay to simulate grazing.

If your horse does have ulcers alleviating the stress will help speed the healing process.

A major stress factor is the feeding schedule. A horse is a creature of habit. Feed at the same time every day. Small, frequent meals are best and they need to be on time. Do not feed one big meal and expect it to last 24 hours or more. Do not feed twice a day with a lapse of more than 12 hours between meals. The best schedule is three or more times within a 24 hour period at the same time each day or night. For example: 6 A.M., 1 P.M. and 8 PM, with the evening meal providing enough hay to last until the next morning.

MORE FEED AND BETTER QUALITY

Most nutrition articles about feeding horses recommend approximately two (2) percent of their body weight in forage per day. This would mean a 1,000-pound horse would need about 20 pounds a day.

This amount is not carved in stone. There are other factors to be considered. What is the quality of the forage? How much of it is edible? How many calories is the forage providing? How many calories per day does the horse require? How digestible is the hay?

Hay that is mature, full of weeds, stored improperly, soiled by other animals, made with inferior grass types or not harvested from well-maintained fields will not provide enough nutrients. If the hay does contain adequate nutrients but the horse does not like the taste of it, then it's no good, too.

It is possible the nervous horse with the high metabolism may eat as much as four or five percent of his body weight in forage per day. Even if hay is provided 24-hours per day if it is not of good quality it will not provide enough calories.

If the underweight horse is on pasture the same problems must be addressed. Is the horse expected to thrive on weeds? A good pasture management program must be implemented which includes rotating pastures. Contact your local cooperative extension office for assistance. http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/index.html In the meantime provide good quality hay in addition to the pasture.

The bottom line is the thin horse (and all horses) should have forage available 24-hours per day.

Once the forage part of the diet has been addressed a balanced commercial diet that compliments the forage should be added.

The key to this is read the feed tag! The mix you choose should be designed for your horse based on age, activity level and forage type. You do not want a feed made for adult horses at maintenance activity level when your horse is a high-performance nervous show horse. You'll end up feeding more, spending more money (think supplements), being frustrated and not providing the needed nutrition for your horse.

Commercial mixes designed for high performance horses and horses that need more calories will contain more fat and probably beet pulp. The fat sources will be vegetable oil, flaxseed and rice bran. These products will not be cheap, but they will be balanced.

Purchasing cheap feed and then adding supplements to try to make it better will only get your mineral ratios unbalanced, create more work for you and put your horse at risk. Unless you are an equine nutritionist leave the mixing to the scientists. Take my word for it - the math calculations are not fun.

If you still decide to add supplements do lots of research. Some key points are: rice bran has an inverted calcium to phosphorus ratio - it needs to be balanced. Horses cannot digest whole flax - it needs to be ground. High fat products turn rancid quickly - they need to be stabilized or purchased fresh frequently. Oil purchased at the grocery store lacks beneficial fatty acids.

Adding a small amount of beet pulp to the diet will not hurt anything. Many horses that are picky will eat with gusto if some moist beet pulp is added to their grain.

Do not feed more than one-half percent of the body weight in grain at one feeding. So a horse that weighs 1,000 pounds should not get more than 5 pounds at a time. (1,000 pounds times 0.005 equals 5 pounds). A horse that weighs 800 pounds would not get more than 4 pounds (800 times 0.005).

THE SENIOR HORSE

The senior horse will have trouble utilizing nutrients. Tooth problems and loosing the ability to extract nutrients from feeds will cause weight loss.

Addressing all management issues can help ensure good quality of life for many years.

Do not neglect the geriatric horse - recovery from sickness, injury or malnutrition can be impossible.

Caring for horses can be expensive and time consuming. Caring for a horse that has issues is worse - if you can't make the commitment, do not get a horse�.they all end up with issues eventually.

THE TRUTH ABOUT PET FOOD

For the most part, your pet eats the same food every day. The brand you feed is your pet’s main source of nutrition, which is vital to a long and healthy life. That’s why it’s important to look past attractive labels and clever marketing ploys when deciding which food to provide your precious pet.


Although you may think that pet food manufacturers have your pet’s best interest at mind, this is not always the case. Current pet food regulations allow manufacturers to use ingredients that you would never knowingly feed your pet. Many foods include by-products like feet, bones, and intestines, chemical preservatives like BHA and BHT, and grains like corn, wheat gluten and soy, which are often difficult to digest. These ingredients can put unnecessary stress on your pet’s system and can lead to diminished overall health.




At HealthPetNet, every food, baked treat and supplement is veterinarian formulated to help your pet achieve optimum health. Our foods and baked treats are nutrient dense and contain only the freshest, human-quality ingredients. Our diets use high-quality meat proteins, rather than by-products, corn, wheat, gluten, or soy. You can be confident you are providing your pet with the healthiest possible diet because our products are free from chemical preservatives, sugars, artificial flavors and colors.