If you have decided to add a new puppy or dog to your household, then you have probably also already gone out and bought everything you need -- such as food, toys, bowls, leashes and a collar -- so that when you bring him (or her) home, everything will already be ready. But, have you also checked in to much needed dog training courses?
The answer to this question is probably "no", as many people do not think about obedience classes as a necessity for bringing home a new dog. Unfortunately, this is the mistake many make which can lead to an unhappy relationship between your new pooch and your family, especially if your four legged friend is quite unmanageable behavior wise. It is for this reason, that dog training courses are essential to the well being and overall happiness of you, your family and your new dog.
There are several different types of dog training courses that you can choose from in order to help you with the discipline of your new dog. Each one has many benefits and they each work in slightly different ways as far as the reinforcement of the trained behavior is concerned. The best way for you to determine which type of course is best for you is by doing a bit of research in to each one in order to understand any pros or cons each may have for you and your dog.
For example, one of the most popular types of dog training courses that people choose is the positive reinforcement/reward method. This type of training allows the dog to receive a combination of reward -- often a suitable doggie treat purchased at the local pet store -- as well as positive praise when they begin mastering the commands you are teaching, such as sit, stay, lay down and heel, to name a few.
Other types of dog training courses include the highly controversial choke collar training in which the owner would snap the leash and apply pressure to the dog's throat when an undesirable behavior is performed. This can seriously injure a dog's neck and trachea so should generally never be used.
There is also head collar training, which is more humane than the choke collar and can be used to steer the dog, gently, towards the desired behavior.
Then there is the click training method -- this method is relatively new and has shown great results; basically, a clicker is used in conjunction with giving a treat when you give a command, as the dog learns the command, the treat is gradually eliminated leaving only the clicker to reinforce his behavior.
Showing posts with label best pet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label best pet. Show all posts
Friday, October 23, 2009
Saturday, September 26, 2009
The Best Snake Options for Reptile Newbies
If you’re thinking about getting a snake as a pet, then know what it takes to care for them, and what the best type of snake is for the first time owner. Lots of people have started to keep snakes as pets after serious consideration of the responsibility of purchasing one, and that’s the best way to begin, knowing the facts about picking the right type of snake and caring for one.
The best way to get your first snake is by talking with and then purchasing one from a reputable breeder of snakes. They know what it takes to capture and then breed the snakes, and can tell you the correct way to handle and feed them. Some people try to go out and capture wild snakes and then breed them. This is very dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing; so don’t try this at home! Wild snakes do have a nasty temper, and will bring into your house diseases and certain parasites that live underneath their scales before they shed their skin. Because they’ve lived in the wild, they aren’t used to humans interacting with them, and the snakes will bite.
Several different kinds of snakes are good to have as a first time owner. Small garters to massive pythons can be kept in captivity, but pythons are certainly not for the first time snake owner. Ball pythons and Corn snakes are two of the best types for you to have as a first time snake owner, but remember to buy it from a snake handler. Their size depends on the age, but typically they range from four feet for the Corn snake to about 21 feet for the Ball pythons. You might find when feeding a captive or trained Ball python that they’re finicky eaters. When they’re stressed or just stubborn they will not eat for months at a time. A Corn snake on the other hand will eat on a regular basis that is if it’s not sick. Both of these snakes usually have a good nature and overall feeding them in a captive environment is easily done.
Of course, all snakes in the wild kill their own food, but if you want a trained or captive bred snake you’ll have to provide its food for them. You want to feed them already killed food because they types of rodents they kill can inflict some nasty cuts and punctures. The last thing you want is to loose your snake after you’ve made a nice home, and have gotten emotionally attached to it, so feed it with dead bait. Also, you’ll find that it’s much cheaper to buy dead food than to pay for live mice or rats, and it’s a lot more convenient too. Just pop a supply into a freezer that’s kept from your food and you’re ready to feed the snake. A large local pet supply store might carry what you need, and if they don’t you can order it from them, the handler you bout your snake from, or on the Internet.
There are certain snakes to stay away from if you’re a first time owner and handler. This is very true if you’ve got small children in the home. A large Burmese python can take down any small person, or child. They’ve even been known to kill other household family pets like dogs and cats. A Burmese python can grow to over 20 feet, and weigh up toward 250 pounds. A boa constrictor is dangerous too if you don’t know how to handle them because they have massive constricting power for a smaller snake than the Burmese. Snake handlers state that having either type of snake should have two people when working with them.
Finally, there are other types of snakes that you should stay away from like any that is poisonous. Not only could someone else be fatally injured, but you could find that you’re sued in court for damages. Having a snake could be a life long commitment of time and money, so make sure you’re ready for the challenge. Read and learn what it takes to care for your new snake before you ever purchase it, and you’ll be ready for snake ownership for years to come.
The best way to get your first snake is by talking with and then purchasing one from a reputable breeder of snakes. They know what it takes to capture and then breed the snakes, and can tell you the correct way to handle and feed them. Some people try to go out and capture wild snakes and then breed them. This is very dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing; so don’t try this at home! Wild snakes do have a nasty temper, and will bring into your house diseases and certain parasites that live underneath their scales before they shed their skin. Because they’ve lived in the wild, they aren’t used to humans interacting with them, and the snakes will bite.
Several different kinds of snakes are good to have as a first time owner. Small garters to massive pythons can be kept in captivity, but pythons are certainly not for the first time snake owner. Ball pythons and Corn snakes are two of the best types for you to have as a first time snake owner, but remember to buy it from a snake handler. Their size depends on the age, but typically they range from four feet for the Corn snake to about 21 feet for the Ball pythons. You might find when feeding a captive or trained Ball python that they’re finicky eaters. When they’re stressed or just stubborn they will not eat for months at a time. A Corn snake on the other hand will eat on a regular basis that is if it’s not sick. Both of these snakes usually have a good nature and overall feeding them in a captive environment is easily done.
Of course, all snakes in the wild kill their own food, but if you want a trained or captive bred snake you’ll have to provide its food for them. You want to feed them already killed food because they types of rodents they kill can inflict some nasty cuts and punctures. The last thing you want is to loose your snake after you’ve made a nice home, and have gotten emotionally attached to it, so feed it with dead bait. Also, you’ll find that it’s much cheaper to buy dead food than to pay for live mice or rats, and it’s a lot more convenient too. Just pop a supply into a freezer that’s kept from your food and you’re ready to feed the snake. A large local pet supply store might carry what you need, and if they don’t you can order it from them, the handler you bout your snake from, or on the Internet.
There are certain snakes to stay away from if you’re a first time owner and handler. This is very true if you’ve got small children in the home. A large Burmese python can take down any small person, or child. They’ve even been known to kill other household family pets like dogs and cats. A Burmese python can grow to over 20 feet, and weigh up toward 250 pounds. A boa constrictor is dangerous too if you don’t know how to handle them because they have massive constricting power for a smaller snake than the Burmese. Snake handlers state that having either type of snake should have two people when working with them.
Finally, there are other types of snakes that you should stay away from like any that is poisonous. Not only could someone else be fatally injured, but you could find that you’re sued in court for damages. Having a snake could be a life long commitment of time and money, so make sure you’re ready for the challenge. Read and learn what it takes to care for your new snake before you ever purchase it, and you’ll be ready for snake ownership for years to come.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Jewelry for Dog Lovers, Don't Get Bitten
There is no doubt about it; dog lovers do love their dogs. After all they are man's best friend. Last year alone, in 2008, dog owners spent a whopping 85 billion dollars on their furry little friends. Many of these folks love to show off their love for the breed of their choice. Some of the most requested trinkets for dog lovers are earrings. These are usually miniature dogs made of some type of material hanging from shepherds hook earrings. Another popular item is a single dog hanging from a chain in the form of a necklace. Then, for the younger set, a charm bracelet, your favorite breed in the form of a charm to be added to the charm bracelet.
There are many companies out in the marketplace that make this type of jewelry that resembles the various breeds of dogs. There are some in 14k or 18k gold, some in stainless steel, some in sterling silver, and some in a variety of carved gemstones. These products are sold as dog earrings, dog necklaces, and even charms for dog charm bracelets. The biggest problem with most of these products is that they lack the likeness of the dog they attempt to portray. They look like a solid mass of some type of metal or gemstone. The only one who knows what it is is the person wearing it, and that is only because they know what it is supposed to be. To most, it resembles just a clump of metal.
The dog jewelry that is widely available on the web today is probably the best selection of its kind available anywhere. With prices that range from a few dollars up to several hundred dollars, how does one decide on the best value, quality, and likeness? Certainly budget limitations come into play as well. What about workmanship? It can be confusing to say the least and difficult to evaluate a product online. Pictures of the product are important but could be misleading in one way or another.
Warranties and company guarantees are very helpful indicators of the quality of the products. Companies that offer complete satisfaction or a full refund are usually a pretty good bet. This indicates the confidence of a company in the product that they sell. The customer's satisfaction should be the company's primary objective. If the company does not have a complete satisfaction warranty, purchasing from them is probably a mistake. When you decide to buy dog jewelry, don't get bitten, buy from someone who has a no questions asked return policy.
There are many companies out in the marketplace that make this type of jewelry that resembles the various breeds of dogs. There are some in 14k or 18k gold, some in stainless steel, some in sterling silver, and some in a variety of carved gemstones. These products are sold as dog earrings, dog necklaces, and even charms for dog charm bracelets. The biggest problem with most of these products is that they lack the likeness of the dog they attempt to portray. They look like a solid mass of some type of metal or gemstone. The only one who knows what it is is the person wearing it, and that is only because they know what it is supposed to be. To most, it resembles just a clump of metal.
The dog jewelry that is widely available on the web today is probably the best selection of its kind available anywhere. With prices that range from a few dollars up to several hundred dollars, how does one decide on the best value, quality, and likeness? Certainly budget limitations come into play as well. What about workmanship? It can be confusing to say the least and difficult to evaluate a product online. Pictures of the product are important but could be misleading in one way or another.
Warranties and company guarantees are very helpful indicators of the quality of the products. Companies that offer complete satisfaction or a full refund are usually a pretty good bet. This indicates the confidence of a company in the product that they sell. The customer's satisfaction should be the company's primary objective. If the company does not have a complete satisfaction warranty, purchasing from them is probably a mistake. When you decide to buy dog jewelry, don't get bitten, buy from someone who has a no questions asked return policy.
How to Train Your Pet Rat
After you have built up a great relationship with your pet rat, you can start to train him. Imagine the fun you will both have when you train together. The enrichment will really add to his day and will impress your friends too.
It is great that you are spending extra time with your rat, but you will still need to make sure that you provide a stimulating environment, for all the times when you are not around. You should also be sure not to be too pushy with your little friend. Cuddles and time out are important too you know. Keep up the training, but be aware that your rat has more important things to think about - like exploring.
Litter Training
Ok so this isn't the most impressive party trick, but it will make things a lot easier for you. You will have to spend less time cleaning out the cage and less money on bedding and the rats can live in a cleaner environment. Everybody wins!
The first step is to make a litter tray out of something such as the bottom of a tissue box or a shoe box. Put some bedding in it, so it looks a bit inviting and then place it in your ratties cage. If there is already one area your rat likes to go to the toilet put it there.
Place your ratty into his new litter tray. Move the poops your rats have done into the box, so that they can smell it there. This will encourage them to go there again. When you find that they have pooped outside the litter tray simply move the poops inside the box again.
It may take time, but persevere and they will learn. Rats like to be clean too you know.
Recognizing Their Name
This is an excellent place to start with your training. It will make your party tricks a lot easier to learn and it is easy to teach.
Every time you say your rats name pick it up and give it a cuddle or even a little treat (it's favourite food). After a while you can drum you hand on the floor and call it's name and again, when it comes to you give it a little treat.
It won't be long before you can call your rat by name and it will come to you. Continue to reward it with tickles, kisses and of course the occasional treat.
Jump
Place your ratty on your lap and make a little gap between your legs. In one hand hold a delicious treat. Your ratty will have to jump the gap to get to the treat. Wave the treat and say "jump Wombat" (insert your rats name here) When your pet has done it give them the treat and lots of praise. Get them to do it a few times. Soon they will do it even without a treat, but don't forget plenty of praise.
Teach Your Rat to Clap
This is a cute one. Hold a delicious treat above your ratties head (a thin piece of carrot dipped in hommous is ideal). Say "clap Wombat" and he will reach up for the treat, lift it up a little so his hands meet. Each time he "claps" say "good boy Wombat" and after say three times give him the treat and let him enjoy it, as well as lots of praise from his favourite person (you I hope).
Fixing Bad Behaviour
If your rat keeps trying to chew the wires or do other naughty ratty things, don't get mad, just spray a little water from the plant mister in his direction and say no. But never be mean to your ratty. They can't help being so inquisitive after all.
Clicker Training
Can you really clicker train a rat? Of course you can. If you have a trusting and fun relationship with your ratty anything is possible.
Teaching your rat to respond to the clicker
First get a clicker from a pet shop or online. Have your ratties favourite food at the ready (give yourself a quota of treats for the day so as not to overfeed) Give your rat the irresistible treat and at the exact time he takes the treat click the clicker.
After a while of doing this, wait for ratty to do something. It can be anything from simply moving, raising a leg, turning around, yawning, whatever he may do. When he does it click the clicker and give a treat at the exact same time. Repeat this. It won't be long until your ratty realises that he is controlling the game. He can decide when he gets the treat. You will find that he starts to repeat behaviours to get a click and a treat and will really start to enjoy the game.
Why the clicker?
You can train your rat without a clicker and simply use treats on their own, but if you do choose to use a clicker this will give your rat the definite message that "yes that is what I want you to do". There will be no need to scold, which can be very detrimental to the learning process. The rat will work out what he needs to do after you have clicked the same action a few times. Treats are a good way to train, but a clicker gives that definite yes that your pet craves. It will definitely make training easier for you.
If your ratty is intolerant of the clicking sound (they have sensitive ears) you can use the lid from a jar, which has a security button. You can simply pop this little button in the lid, instead of a clicker.
It is up to you. You should judge how your ratty reacts to the click sound.
Word Commands with the clicker
After a while you can add word commands to your clicker training. For example if you have trained your rat to clap, and he has started to clap to get a click and a treat, say "clap Wombat" when he is doing it and then say "stop Wombat" when he stops give him a click and a treat. He will eventually associate the word "clap" with the action of clapping and with the click and the treat. You can choose to only reward your rat with a click and a treat when he claps on command, so as to avoid begging behaviour.
To teach your rat a new behaviour, for example pushing a ball along, you need to click and praise it at every step of the way. When he looks at the ball, click and treat, when he walks towards the ball, click and treat, when he touches the ball, click and treat, when he pushes the ball, click and treat. He will soon get the idea.
After a while you will not need to give a click and a treat every time. You may simply be able to praise. Remember keep it fun. This is playtime after all.
You can teach plenty of things with a clicker. The limit is your imagination. You can teach your rat to come to you, to sit on your shoulder as well as party tricks, such as rolling over or even dancing.
It is important to keep it short. Remember rats have a lot to do. There's exploring everything in sight for a start. Five minutes is plenty to start with. You may wish to do your first training sessions in a room where there are less distractions.
Not all rats are as trainable as others. If your rat isn't into school, enjoy playing other games instead like chasing with your hand, tickling, massaging and just watching them have lots of fun.
Keep your rats healthy. A healthy, happy ratty is the most trainable and keep them well fed too, or they'll be in no mood to do anything for you.
Oh by the way...don't scold your ratty during training. If he's not getting a trick straight away give him time. It will pay off in the end. You don't want to damage the trust you've built up.
It is great that you are spending extra time with your rat, but you will still need to make sure that you provide a stimulating environment, for all the times when you are not around. You should also be sure not to be too pushy with your little friend. Cuddles and time out are important too you know. Keep up the training, but be aware that your rat has more important things to think about - like exploring.
Litter Training
Ok so this isn't the most impressive party trick, but it will make things a lot easier for you. You will have to spend less time cleaning out the cage and less money on bedding and the rats can live in a cleaner environment. Everybody wins!
The first step is to make a litter tray out of something such as the bottom of a tissue box or a shoe box. Put some bedding in it, so it looks a bit inviting and then place it in your ratties cage. If there is already one area your rat likes to go to the toilet put it there.
Place your ratty into his new litter tray. Move the poops your rats have done into the box, so that they can smell it there. This will encourage them to go there again. When you find that they have pooped outside the litter tray simply move the poops inside the box again.
It may take time, but persevere and they will learn. Rats like to be clean too you know.
Recognizing Their Name
This is an excellent place to start with your training. It will make your party tricks a lot easier to learn and it is easy to teach.
Every time you say your rats name pick it up and give it a cuddle or even a little treat (it's favourite food). After a while you can drum you hand on the floor and call it's name and again, when it comes to you give it a little treat.
It won't be long before you can call your rat by name and it will come to you. Continue to reward it with tickles, kisses and of course the occasional treat.
Jump
Place your ratty on your lap and make a little gap between your legs. In one hand hold a delicious treat. Your ratty will have to jump the gap to get to the treat. Wave the treat and say "jump Wombat" (insert your rats name here) When your pet has done it give them the treat and lots of praise. Get them to do it a few times. Soon they will do it even without a treat, but don't forget plenty of praise.
Teach Your Rat to Clap
This is a cute one. Hold a delicious treat above your ratties head (a thin piece of carrot dipped in hommous is ideal). Say "clap Wombat" and he will reach up for the treat, lift it up a little so his hands meet. Each time he "claps" say "good boy Wombat" and after say three times give him the treat and let him enjoy it, as well as lots of praise from his favourite person (you I hope).
Fixing Bad Behaviour
If your rat keeps trying to chew the wires or do other naughty ratty things, don't get mad, just spray a little water from the plant mister in his direction and say no. But never be mean to your ratty. They can't help being so inquisitive after all.
Clicker Training
Can you really clicker train a rat? Of course you can. If you have a trusting and fun relationship with your ratty anything is possible.
Teaching your rat to respond to the clicker
First get a clicker from a pet shop or online. Have your ratties favourite food at the ready (give yourself a quota of treats for the day so as not to overfeed) Give your rat the irresistible treat and at the exact time he takes the treat click the clicker.
After a while of doing this, wait for ratty to do something. It can be anything from simply moving, raising a leg, turning around, yawning, whatever he may do. When he does it click the clicker and give a treat at the exact same time. Repeat this. It won't be long until your ratty realises that he is controlling the game. He can decide when he gets the treat. You will find that he starts to repeat behaviours to get a click and a treat and will really start to enjoy the game.
Why the clicker?
You can train your rat without a clicker and simply use treats on their own, but if you do choose to use a clicker this will give your rat the definite message that "yes that is what I want you to do". There will be no need to scold, which can be very detrimental to the learning process. The rat will work out what he needs to do after you have clicked the same action a few times. Treats are a good way to train, but a clicker gives that definite yes that your pet craves. It will definitely make training easier for you.
If your ratty is intolerant of the clicking sound (they have sensitive ears) you can use the lid from a jar, which has a security button. You can simply pop this little button in the lid, instead of a clicker.
It is up to you. You should judge how your ratty reacts to the click sound.
Word Commands with the clicker
After a while you can add word commands to your clicker training. For example if you have trained your rat to clap, and he has started to clap to get a click and a treat, say "clap Wombat" when he is doing it and then say "stop Wombat" when he stops give him a click and a treat. He will eventually associate the word "clap" with the action of clapping and with the click and the treat. You can choose to only reward your rat with a click and a treat when he claps on command, so as to avoid begging behaviour.
To teach your rat a new behaviour, for example pushing a ball along, you need to click and praise it at every step of the way. When he looks at the ball, click and treat, when he walks towards the ball, click and treat, when he touches the ball, click and treat, when he pushes the ball, click and treat. He will soon get the idea.
After a while you will not need to give a click and a treat every time. You may simply be able to praise. Remember keep it fun. This is playtime after all.
You can teach plenty of things with a clicker. The limit is your imagination. You can teach your rat to come to you, to sit on your shoulder as well as party tricks, such as rolling over or even dancing.
It is important to keep it short. Remember rats have a lot to do. There's exploring everything in sight for a start. Five minutes is plenty to start with. You may wish to do your first training sessions in a room where there are less distractions.
Not all rats are as trainable as others. If your rat isn't into school, enjoy playing other games instead like chasing with your hand, tickling, massaging and just watching them have lots of fun.
Keep your rats healthy. A healthy, happy ratty is the most trainable and keep them well fed too, or they'll be in no mood to do anything for you.
Oh by the way...don't scold your ratty during training. If he's not getting a trick straight away give him time. It will pay off in the end. You don't want to damage the trust you've built up.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Cat Carriers for Fun or Fashion
Cat carriers are an essential supply for any pet owner.
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Wether it's simple trips to the vet or traveling, you want to make sure you get a carrier that is safe, easy to use and functional. We'll point you in the right direction whether you want a basic kennel cab, or a designer carry bag that is functional and looks great!
Make sure you purchase a cat carrier that is comfortable for your cat. It should be about 1 ½ times the size of the cat and he should be able to lie flat and turn around inside the carrier. If you are traveling on a plane with your cat, you'll want to check with the airline to make sure your carrier is accepted. Generally, most hard sided carriers are OK for pet travel.
Having tried to shove our cats into front loading kennel cabs many a time, we recommend a top loading carrier like the soft sided Cozy Carrier.
The top loading carriers are much easier, you just scoop up your cat and plop him in before he knows what's happened!
Soft sided carriers can be more comfortable and are accepted by some airlines for traveling with pets under the seat in the passenger cabin. Some soft sided carriers have optional travel tray and travel kits while others have wheels like the Sherpa-On-Wheels. And don't forget a front carrier for taking your pet anywhere and still having your hands free.
You can have your cat carriers and look great too! Check out these designer carriers - how about this great faux animal skin tote or this 1940's style bag, or my favorite, this zebra lined tote that looks like a pair of jeans on the front! Or slip your friend into the faux mink or faux crocodile carrier.
google_protectAndRun("render_ads.js::google_render_ad", google_handleError, google_render_ad);
Wether it's simple trips to the vet or traveling, you want to make sure you get a carrier that is safe, easy to use and functional. We'll point you in the right direction whether you want a basic kennel cab, or a designer carry bag that is functional and looks great!
Make sure you purchase a cat carrier that is comfortable for your cat. It should be about 1 ½ times the size of the cat and he should be able to lie flat and turn around inside the carrier. If you are traveling on a plane with your cat, you'll want to check with the airline to make sure your carrier is accepted. Generally, most hard sided carriers are OK for pet travel.
Having tried to shove our cats into front loading kennel cabs many a time, we recommend a top loading carrier like the soft sided Cozy Carrier.
The top loading carriers are much easier, you just scoop up your cat and plop him in before he knows what's happened!
Soft sided carriers can be more comfortable and are accepted by some airlines for traveling with pets under the seat in the passenger cabin. Some soft sided carriers have optional travel tray and travel kits while others have wheels like the Sherpa-On-Wheels. And don't forget a front carrier for taking your pet anywhere and still having your hands free.
You can have your cat carriers and look great too! Check out these designer carriers - how about this great faux animal skin tote or this 1940's style bag, or my favorite, this zebra lined tote that looks like a pair of jeans on the front! Or slip your friend into the faux mink or faux crocodile carrier.
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